Red Mountain Trail, St. George, Utah

After a great day of riding into the southern part of Zion National Park, near Hurricane, Utah, I spent the following day, Saturday, with Jon Tanner, Michael George, Craig Sorensen, and a number of members of the Missouri Fox Trotting Horse Breed Association riding Red Mountain Trail, just northwest of St. George, Utah.

Parking area at Red Mountain Trail head
Parking area at Red Mountain Trail head

This trailhead is located just north of mile marker 15 on Highway 18. There is a very nice parking area with a restroom, which was built by the local Back Country Horsemen Association a few years ago, with the cooperation of the Bureau of Land Management. The parking lot was built to accommodate horse trailers and allows even large trailers room to park and maneuver in the lot. There is no running water and no electrical service, so you’ll need to consider that if you’re hauling horses from any distance to this trailhead. There are no parking fees, but I’m not sure if overnight camping is allowed. You’d have to check that with the local BLM office.

Once we got everyone together, we had about 31 riders, most mounted on Fox Trotters. There were at least two other groups, smaller than ours, starting on the trails at about the same time. There are several trails and plenty of room for all and we never bumped into any of the other groups while on the ride. The Red Mountain Trail makes a loop of about 6.7 miles, starting at one end of the parking area and ending at the other, so you can pick which direction you want to go. There are steel gates at either entrance, built to allow hikers, bicyclers, and horses, but not ATVs. As this area is actually outside the Snow Canyon State Park, dogs are allowed on the trails off-leash.

2015-02-21 10.41.48We headed out the south end of the parking area and got just outside the gate and waited while we gathered our forces. Once we got started, the group quickly separated into several smaller groups, all traveling the same direction. With a group of gaited horses, such as Fox Trotters, there are those who travel quite a bit faster than others, so those who wished to slow down a bit, and stay out of the dust trail, hung back a bit.

The terrain, for the most part, consists of very fine sandstone dust, juniper trees, manzanita, and sage. There are several parts of the trail that are pretty rocky, and a couple places that might present a challenge to the uninitiated rider,  but I would consider the trail to be in the category of fairly easy overall. Many of our horses, including mine, were barefoot and handled it very well.

About half-way through the trail loop, one suddenly comes upon the northern rim of Snow Canyon, which drops away about 1,400 feet in sheer cliffs from the trail. There are no walking paths and no guardrails, so one has to pay attention to things when going up to the edge for a look or for photos.

Snow Canyon, St George, Utah
Snow Canyon, St George, Utah

What one sees here is breathtaking and cannot be adequately captured on my little iphone 6 camera. I did my best, but this is a sight one must take a look at in person to really experience it.

We broke there for lunch and sat around enjoying stories from some of the more experienced riders in the group, which was enjoyable all in itself. This area is primitive, so don’t expect any picnic tables or trash cans.

After a restful half-hour or so, we mounted up and headed out to finish the loop. The entire ride took under 3 hours, covered 6.7 miles, and was quite easy on the horses and riders. On the way out, there are at least two trails that diverge from the main, so one must pay attention to make sure he/she is tracking where they want to go. The trail markers were not entirely clear as to which way was back to the parking area. Having someone along who actually knows the trail is nice, but not absolutely necessary, as one would have to try pretty hard to get lost. Just keep tracking east and eventually you’ll hit the power lines and Highway 18. Then just look around and you will be able to find your way back to the parking area, since the area is almost clear of trees for at least a hundred yards from the highway.

2015-02-21 12.04.25This was a short ride and would make a good “filler” ride for some extra time during a weekend trip to the area. There are a number of other similar trails in the area, so one could actually fill up a weekend, and more, hitting them in turn. Each trail around the Snow Canyon area holds its own particular spectacular views and adventures.

 

Enjoy the photo gallery.

Coal Pits Wash Trail, Hurricane, Utah

Several weeks ago, I was invited by Jon Tanner to fill a slot in his trailer for a ride down to the Saint George area of southern Utah for a couple days. He was going down to meet members of the local Missouri Fox Trotting Horse Breed Association for a couple days of riding. After he twisted my arm a while, I agreed (that’s exactly how it happened, right Jon?).

Jon picked up me and my horse, Ranger, Friday morning at 6:30am and we headed south. We arrived at the designated meeting site, the Washington County Equestrian Center at Hurricane, Utah at about 10:30am. I was surprised to see that about 30 riders showed up. I had no idea there would be that many. Due to the large size of the group, and that some wanted to see one area while others wanted to see another, the group split for the day’s ride.

Jon and I followed Janet Carver to the Coal Pits Wash trailhead, located about 8 miles and a bit east of Hurricane on Highway 9. The parking area is a wide spot on the north side of the road just before the highway turns a bit north. I don’t recall seeing a road sign announcing the location, so you just have to look for it. The parking area will hold several trucks and 4-horse trailers and there is room for a turn-around, if necessary.

Parking at the trailhead
Parking at the trailhead

The trailhead is easy to see. There is a gate that marks the trail. Once through the gate (make sure you close it after passing through) the trail is easy to follow. It tracks generally northward. Just a short distance up the trail, you will cross into Zion National Park. Although there are only trail markers where different trails intersect, it’s not terribly difficult to see where others have gone before. In some areas, where the trails my diverge or where the rocky ground sort of hides the trail, you will find rocks stacked to mark the trail. Also, this trail is open to horse,  bicycle, and foot traffic, so be aware of other travelers and be courteous to all.

Heading north from the trailhead
Heading north from the trailhead

The trail heads north into a broad canyon where the traveling is fairly easy. The trail has a slow, steady climb, crosses through the creek several times, but more often stays up on the bench on the east side of the creek. It is a good idea to water your horses in the creek, as once you start your climb up out of the wash, there is likely to be little water on the trail.

There are several deep cuts in the bench, from erosion, that one must either go around or cross through. Which you choose to do is up to you and your horse; a couple of the cuts were pretty steep and narrow. In fact, coming back we simply jumped a couple of them, rather than taking the long way around. This is an area in which an inexperienced rider and/or horse can get themselves into trouble, so don’t bite off more than you can chew, so to speak.

Climbing the Coggins Trail
Climbing the Coggins Trail

On up the trail about two miles, you will come to the intersection of the Coggins Trail. This trail leads up a steep switch-back that climbs very quickly up out of Coal Pits Wash and up through a saddle. This trail, while not particularly challenging for the average horse, may be quite intimidating for the uninitiated rider. The climb is steep and the slope falls steeply away from the narrow trail. As you climb higher on the hillside, you will find some pretty spectacular views of the area you have just passed through. If you will click on the photo below and enlarge it, you will see a string of riders from our group about three-quarters of the way up the hillside.

The climb up out of Coal Pits Wash on the Coggins Trail.
The climb up out of Coal Pits Wash on the Coggins Trail.

The trail then goes over a saddle into some fairly level and easy-riding areas that track generally east-by-northeast through juniper and pinon trees toward beautiful red and white cliffs. At this point you are above the wash and will find little water, other than the occasional puddle left over from recent rains.

2015-02-20 14.52.53At this point we tracked generally toward the cliffs, following a well-marked trail – marked by traffic, rather than signs – until we felt we had gone far enough and turned around. We found2015-02-20 15.17.34

a small, sort of mini-slot canyon off to one side of the trail that we followed up a ways. It added interest to the ride, but was just a short diversion that required either a return trip the same way we entered, or a little bushwhacking to make our own way over the ridge back to the trail. We chose the bushwacking.

2015-02-20 15.23.04Also, along the way up on top, keep your eyes open for petrified wood, such as the log laying across the trail in the photo to the left. I’m told there are dinosaur tracks somewhere in the area, but we didn’t take the time to look for them. I’m sure you could get more information as to where they are located from park rangers (we didn’t see any rangers during our ride).

We followed the same path out that we followed in, however one has to pay attention, as there are several trails that diverge from the main trail. As mentioned, there are trail markers at points were marked trails diverge from the main, however, sometimes it is difficult to determine where the trails actually diverge. At one point we missed a turn and went several hundred yards on the wrong trail before we realized we didn’t recognize the terrain. We simply went back to the last marker and found the trails diverged on a large, flat rock and we simply missed the trail. Once we recognized our mistake it was easy to see the small stack of rocks that marked the trail we wanted.

2015-02-20 16.29.21Although we traveled out on the same trail we followed in, the views were as spectacular as before. Each direction offers its own views and perspectives and there is nothing lost in following the same trail out.

Our ride took about four hours and covered around seven miles. It was an excellent way to spend a nice February afternoon. By the way, the temperatures were in the high-sixties, with clear blue skies for us. In the summertime you can expect temperatures above 100 degrees. Wintertime is the time to see this area by horseback.

Enjoy the photo gallery.

 

Running out of time….

Seems like I have hardly had time to sit down these past several weeks. Since the second week of January I have been busier than a one-legged man in a butt-kicking contest at a county fair!

I spent the first couple weeks of January looking for a part-time job, so I could pay for my horse-related activities, as directed by my family financial advisor (wife). I was putting in applications at places like Cal Ranch, Tractor Supply, and Ace Hardware, etc. so I could keep it at part-time, so as not to defeat the purpose of getting the job in the first place…which was to pay for my horse habits. Why pay for a horse if you can’t ride him? I had no idea what my job search would set in motion. So much for retirement!

After a couple weeks of job hunting, I picked up a few hours a week driving a night courier route, delivering car parts through a stretch of back country in central Utah. I was driving two nights a week, leaving about 10:30pm and returning home around 6-7am, and covering 350-400 miles. I found I was almost completely useless for a couple days after each run. Didn’t like that feeling, but the money was decent and I enjoy driving, and particularly driving at night. At least I had some money coming in.

The driving job helped me pay for the fees for several certification courses I decided to take to become an NRA Firearms Instructor as well as an instructor for the Concealed Firearm Permit (CFP) in the State of Utah. Since January 17, I have obtained my Utah CFP, certified as an NRA Basic Pistol Instructor, and taken the course to become a Utah CFP Instructor. I’m still waiting for my CFP Instructor card to come back.

After finishing the CFP course, I got to talking with the instructor, who mentioned that he was associated with a group who was putting together a team for special projects related to security details and personal protection. He wondered if I might be interested. I told him I’d think about it. I called him a couple days later and expressed my interest and asked him to put me in touch with his contact. A couple weeks later I interviewed with Bedrock Protection Agency and became an on-call employee for their special projects group. I completed my Utah Armed Security Officer certification and am now a licensed Security Officer in Utah.

As it turns out, Bedrock likes my qualifications and has approached me to take over the training program for their security officers. So, this week my application was submitted to become a PACSCO certified instructor for the Utah Armed and Unarmed Security Officer licensure training.  Additionally, I have already worked one special project for them.

In preparation for instructing at Bedrock, as well as doing NRA Basic Pistol and Utah CFP courses, I have registered the business name of “Guardian Personal Firearms Training” in Utah, under which I will conduct all my firearms training-related business. I also intend to register the name in Arizona and obtain business licenses to instruct courses for the Arizona CFP, since Arizona accepts the Utah CFP course for their CFP certification, as long as it is taught by a qualified instructor. Arizona accepts certified NRA instructors as qualified under their laws.

All this sort of interfered with a project I had going on already, of building cabinets for my daughter and son-in-law, who are finishing their basement. So, I’m behind on that, but making progress when I can. I hope to have them finished by the end of next week.

On top of all that, I sold both pairs of my chaps two weeks ago (the ones I made last year – see my blog posts on them), which was good, except that now I don’t have any chaps for my pack trip in April. Then the fellow called back last week and needs another pair for his nephew. So, this evening I ordered leather for his third pair of chaps, as well as leather for pairs of chinks and chaps for myself. I’m hoping the sale of my first three pairs of chaps opens the door for further business in that direction. I am hoping to be able to expand my leather working, and the sale of the chaps has helped me further that purpose, allowing me to buy more tools and leather.

Additionally, I still have my old Hamley Ranch Saddle to finish repairing.

Then today, I got a call from the CEO of Bedrock, who wants to pull me in a little deeper into the company. I explained that while I am very excited about the opportunities presented to me by the company, for the next several months I cannot commit to full-time employment. I explained that in April and May I intend to be with my dad, riding horses from the border of Mexico to Panguitch, Utah, and that was my main priority for the moment. I let him know that once that ride is over, that I will be able to put forth whatever effort and time is required to make myself fully useful to the company. He seemed satisfied with that answer, for which I was glad, for I am truly excited about the prospects of working with this young and growing company.

So, for the moment, I will be working part-time for Bedrock, part-time in business for myself as a firearms instructor, and part-time as a cabinetmaker, and part-time as a leatherworker….how many parts was that? I am also a Cub Scout leader, a husband, a father, and grandfather…and I have to pick up the dog poop every Monday (nothing like that to keep me from getting too proud of myself).

So you can see I have been rather busy. Busier than I really want to be. I haven’t had but one chance to even mess with my horse in the past three weeks. That is about to change.

This weekend I will be joining Jon Tanner, Michael George, and several others on a ride in the Saint George, Utah area for a couple days this weekend. I’m truly looking forward to it.

I have to say that when I told my new boss, the CEO of Bedrock Protection Agency, in the face of a very good opportunity for me, that I would be unavailable during April and May for a pack trip with my dad, I suddenly felt for the first time that this trip is really going to happen and I was not going to let anything get in the way of it this time. Dad and I had the chance to do a similar trip many years ago, but we both let other aspects of life sort of pinch it off. I have been planning this trip now for more than two years and I have lived with the fear that I would allow some other part of life smother it again. Today I sort of a flushed all doubts from my mind and a whole new level of excitement has filled me.

Only problem now is that I’m running out of time! Just a little more than a month left before we hit the trail! Lots to do.

Back to Planning the Big Pack Trip

To those of you who have been following this saga from the beginning, thank you. You will be pleased to know that Dad and I are actually in the “OK! We’re going to do this!” stage now. For those just joining us, my father and I have been trying to plan a horse pack trip from Mexcio to Canada. We have both been dreaming about something like this since I was in high school and we’re finally going to make it happen. We’ve had to scale our plans back a bit…a lot…because of a number of factors coming into play. The thought of making it all the way from Mexico to Canada is still rolling around in our heads, but we’ve decided it would be much wiser for us to break the trip up into “legs” and try not to bite off more than we can chew at a time.

Our hope for this year, 2015, is to take the first two legs of the trip, from the Mexican border to

The first two legs of our Mexico to Canada trip.
The first two legs of our Mexico to Canada trip.

Panguitch, Utah. Shown in the graphic in red and green, as close as I can figure, using Google Earth and USFS maps, that will cover about 800-1,000 miles. I’m confident it will be closer to the 1,000 mile mark, since the Arizona Trail has been fully documented at 800 miles and our route through Arizona will be at least 100 miles longer than that, due to our desired stop in Eagar. We intend to document the trip by GPS, so there will be no question as to mileage and so anyone who wishes to follow our route later will have that information to help in their planning.

Truthfully, the second leg of the trip, from Eagar, Arizona to Panguitch, Utah, is the part of the trip Dad and I have been dreaming about. He and I have talked about crossing the Grand Canyon on our own stock for more years than I care to remember. From Eagar to Flagstaff, we’ll follow portions of the old Honeymoon Trail, which the early Mormon settlers of northeastern Arizona used to travel to be married in the LDS Temples in Utah. We’ll also travel the old General Crook Trail which he blazed from the White Mountains to Camp Verde in the late 1800s. We’ll then travel north on the Arizona Trail, crossing through the Grand Canyon, then on up through portions of southern Utah where my great-grandfathers used to ranch and run cattle. The legendary outlaw Butch Cassidy was known to have frequented the areas we’ll pass through. We’ll end up this leg, and likely our travels for the year, at Panguitch, Utah, where Dad was born and raised. This leg of the trip will be between 500 and 700 miles, as close as I can figure, and should take us about 6-7 weeks. Dad will turn 81 years old during that leg. There is a lot of history, both general and personal that we’ll be passing through on that part of our trip.

As of today, the plan is for us to depart sometime in April (a lot will depend on weather) and try the first leg of the trip. This will take us from the U.S./Mexico border just east of Douglas, Arizona, northward to Eagar, Arizona. That leg will be approximately 300 miles and should take us about three weeks, give or take a couple days. Eagar will be a sort of home-base for us, since that’s where my folks live. Once there, we’ll rest up for a week or two while we assess how we did and what we need to change. We will see how we feel about our horses, decide whether to add a couple to the string and whether any of the ones that made the first leg need to be changed-out. We’ll assess our gear – saddles, pack saddles, halters bridles, packs, cooking gear, etc. – and make adjustments where needed. Not among the least of things for a couple of old farts, we’ll assess our own health and determine whether our old bones can make the second leg of the trip.

First Leg To EagarTo add a little more detail, shown in the graphic in red, the first leg will have us departing from about Border Monument #77, just a couple miles east of Douglas, Arizona. We’ll track generally north from there, crossing State Highway 80 and on into the Chiricahua Mountains. As I will be taking my trusty trail dog with us, we’ll stay clear of the boundaries of the state park there, tracking around it on the east side. We’ll trend northwest from there, following portions of the Grand Enchantment Trail through the mountains until we come close to Safford, Arizona, where we’ll head east until we come to Eagle Creek. We’ll head north from there, passing east of the San Carlos Indian Reservation border, wind our way up to cross Highway 191, and head over into the Blue Wilderness Area. We’ll drop down off the Mogollon Rim and find Blue Road and follow it northeastward until we come to a friend’s place just south of the town of Blue. We’ll likely stay there a couple days and rest ourselves and the horses, before heading up Foote Creek Trail, or possibly Grant Creek Trail, back up on top of the Mogollon Rim near Hannagan Meadow. From there we’ll be tracking northwest, passing west of Alpine and Nutrioso and on up to Eagar, Arizona. That will be the end of the first leg, as I said before. As close as I can figure that should be very close to 300 miles.

That route for the first leg makes good sense for us, because it crosses roads at various places and passes through or near a couple of towns. That will make it a fairly simple matter for our logistical support. We already know we will have to pack our horse feed, or at the very least supplement it on this first leg. It’s not likely there will be much grass along that route at that time of the year. We will plan to have a driver meet us at planned locations to re-supply us with feed…for both horses and humans. From what I see on Google Earth, though, we should be fine on water for the stock and for ourselves all along the route that time of year, as there are numerous stock ponds and tanks and a few creeks. Snow run-off and rain should have them all pretty full.

After taking a couple weeks for rest and recuperation, as well as assessment and adjustment as necessary, there at Eagar, we hope to embark on the second leg – the trophy leg – of our trip. This route, shown in green in the graphic, will track northwest from Eagar, Arizona along the edge of the pine forests of the Tonto National Forest, to Show Low, Arizona. Just west of Show Low, we’ll meet the General Crook Trail, which is a designated trail for foot/equine travel. It will take us on down the mountains to Camp Verde, where we’ll join the Arizona Trail. The Arizona Trail will take us north, passing west of Flagstaff, Arizona (actually through Flagstaff for a short distance), then on

Second leg from Eagar, AZ to Panguitch, UT
Second leg from Eagar, AZ to Panguitch, UT

north to the park entrance to the Grand Canyon National Park. We’ll stop there to make all the necessary last-minute arrangements with the park service and the mule outfitters before heading down the designated trails to the bottom.  While horse travel in the park is permitted on designated trails, coordination is necessary, so as not to encounter a string of mules coming the other way on a narrow portion of the trail. We’ll spend a night at the Ghost Ranch at the bottom of the canyon, to which I look forward with much anticipation. We could probably make it down and up in one day, but I can’t imagine making that passage without stopping for a night at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. That is something I have dreamed of. Sadly, my dog will have to travel this portion in the truck with the hired help.

From the Grand Canyon, we’ll move northward to cross U.S. Highway 89, where it makes a big jog as it crosses Paria Canyon. We’ll follow Paria northward to Willis Creek, which we will follow westward to the Grandview Trail. The trails up Paria and Willis Creek hold some spectacular scenery, winding through “slot-canyons” so narrow in some places that we’ll likely have to unpack our horses to pass through. The Grandview Trail wanders around the outskirts of Bryce Canyon National Park. It offers much of the same scenery, although from a less spectacular perspective, as the park does, but is on BLM land, which allows me to take my dog and is unregulated as far as horse travel. The Grandview Trail passes around the south end of Paunsaugunt Plateau (Bryce is on the southeast side of the plateau), then turns northward along the west side of the plateau. We’ll follow that trail up to Red Canyon, where we’ll come down off the plateau and make our way on into Panguitch, Utah.

We still have family living there in Panguitch, and Dad still has many old friends there. I expect we’ll be met there with open arms….and shaking heads. That will be the end of our trip for the year, completing the first two legs of our Mexico to Canada trip, covering about 800-1,000 miles.

It will also be the fulfillment of a long held dream for one son and his dad.

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