Dad and I got on the phone together on Christmas Day last week and talked a little about our upcoming pack trip. We’re talking about the second leg of our Mexico-to-Canada pack trip. I have been putting together a route plan and trying to figure out the best time frame to fit it into. Dad made that a lot easier.

Dad was born and raised in Panguitch, Utah. Panguitch, being steeped in pioneer tradition of the LDS faith, holds a Pioneer Day Celebration every year on or about July 24th, the day the first group of Mormon pioneers entered the Salt Lake Valley in 1847, under the command of Brigham Young.  Dad graduated high school there in Panguitch, and to this day his graduating class has a reunion every other year. In 2014, twenty-one of his classmates showed up out of a graduating class of thirty-nine. Since he graduated high school in 1952, that’s a phenomenal statistic!  Well, last week Dad had a request. He wants to arrive in Panguitch at the end of the second leg of our pack trip, so that he can attend his class reunion and the Panguitch Pioneer Day Celebration.

Well, that’s not too hard. We just figure out the total mileage, our anticipated mileage per day, and estimate the time it will take us to get from Eagar, Arizona to Panguitch, Utah, then simply track it back to determine when we need to depart Eagar to make it happen. Piece of cake!

So, here’s the figuring. The route we are planning has us departing Eagar, AZ and traveling almost due west, following US Route 60 to Show Low, AZ. We figured to follow the highway for that portion for a couple reasons. Firstly, water in that part of Arizona is pretty scarce, so we’ll need to have water delivered to us daily for that portion. Secondly, there is always grass growing alongside the highway, which will help our stock stay in good shape as we start the trip. Thirdly, in this area of Arizona, there are a lot of fences and few trails and the travel time we will save following the highway, rather than backroads, will be important to us later on in the trip. US Route 60 is the most direct route we could take from Eagar to Show Low. It has a wide easement and no travel restrictions, such as fences.  It also routes us around the White Mountain Apache Reservation, which is not particularly friendly to horse travel on their lands.  This route Just makes sense, despite our preference of following trails or backroads. It’s about 49 miles from our starting point in Eagar to Show Low by that route.

At Show Low, we will turn south and join the Mogollon Rim Road, which travels along the top of the Mogollon Rim, generally in a westward direction. For those unfamiliar with Arizona, the Mogollon Rim is the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau that drops off to the south, creating a steep drop in elevation of up to 4,000 feet in some places. It runs across central Arizona for about 200 miles. The Mogollon Rim Road follows most of the rim. We will be following this road just for a few miles.  Just west of Show Low there is a designated foot/horse trail that follows the same direction, just a bit closer to the actual rim. This is what we are hoping to be able to follow. We should be able to find adequate water and feed for the horses along that route, but if not, we are close enough to a decent road that we can have feed brought when needed. We will follow this route for about 100 miles before we join the Arizona Trail and head north again.

The Arizona Trail is a designated trail for non-motorized travel that crosses Arizona from Mexico to Utah. I am a supporting member of the AZT, which has a very active association that maintains the trail. The trail is fully documented by GPS for mileage, water sources, elevation, etc, so there are few surprises there. This is the route the boys from “Unbranded” rode from Mexico to Utah. We will join the route just north of Payson, Arizona, between where you see Pine and Tonto Natural Bridge State Park on the AZT map. From that point, there is no guesswork in the mileage. It will be 220.5 miles from there to the south entrance of the Grand Canyon National Park.

Crossing the Grand Canyon on our own horses is the Crown Jewel of our entire trip. Dad and I have dreamed of this since I was in high school. This is where things get a bit tricky. The earliest the GCNP will allow camp reservations in the park is four months in advance, and if you don’t reserve that far ahead you simply will not get a reservation. Additionally, you cannot stay a night in the park without a camp permit, particularly with horses. The regulations regarding horse travel in the park are quite reasonable and they are strictly enforced. Horses must have been fed weed-free feed for two weeks before entering the park, they must have a current negative Coggins test (one year), and a current health certification within 30 days from a veterinarian. One must also have a reservation for one of the two horse camps within the canyon itself in order to be able to stay overnight in the canyon.

Additional regulations include travel hours on the trails. From the South Rim, private individuals with their own stock must depart no earlier than 1:30pm, to avoid conflict with the outfitters coming out of the canyon with their mule strings in the morning. Heading up the north side, private individuals must depart no earlier than 10:30am. The mileage from the South Rim to the Phantom Ranch at the bottom is 7.4 miles, and from there to the north rim is another 14 miles. Due to the late departure from the South Rim, it will be necessary (a happy necessity, I might add) that we stay one night in the canyon. We hope to be able to secure a reservation at the horse camp at Phantom Ranch.

Once out of the canyon, it is another 12.6 miles to the GCNP northern border. Add that to the 14 miles from Phantom Ranch to the North Rim and it is pretty likely we will be staying another night in camp somewhere before we arrive at the park border, requiring another camping permit reservation.

In talking with the park rangers last spring, I found them to be very helpful, in fact, surprisingly so, with regard to our plans to cross the Grand Canyon on our own horses. They suggested that I make a reservation to camp at the Mather Camp Ground on the South Rim for a week, which would give us some leeway on our arrival date. We will be traveling by horse for about 370 miles and trying to hit a particular date on our arrival at the GCNP. That’s like hitting a full-court shot at the end of a basketball game. If we are unable to secure the camp reservations we need or if we are delayed and can’t make the date of our reservation, they were fairly confident they would be able to fit us in at some point while we waited in camp at Mather. As things turned out this year, we decided against going on after the first leg of the trip. For the second leg, this coming year, I will try to get reservations for one night at Phantom Ranch and another night up on the north side somewhere. I will reserve a site at Mather Camp Ground, which has hookups, bathrooms, etc, on the South Rim for a week in advance of the primitive camp reservations. If things work out well, we will have a few days of rest for us and the horses before tackling the Grand Canyon.

Once we leave the GCNP, we will continue on the Arizona Trail another 66.4 miles to the Utah Border. At that point we join the Great Western Trail. The GWT is a network of multi-use trails on government land (Bureau of Land Management, US Forest Service, and state lands) that stretches the rest of the way from Utah to Canada. It is not well documented and there is no private association that helps maintain the trail system, other than volunteer organizations, such as the Back Country Horsemen of America, which has several chapters in Utah. At this point we are again back to our own reckoning as to the trails we will take and the mileage from point to point.

Our route from the Utah Border will take us northward up Paria Creek to the mouth of Willis Creek. We will follow Willis westward up Willis Creek Canyon, toward Bryce Canyon National Park. Our plan is to join the Grandview Trail below (east of ) Bryce and follow it around the southern end of the Paunsaugunt Plateau, then back northward to Red Canyon. If time allows, we will take a day to ride Bryce Canyon, as well as Casto Canyon and Losee Canyon on the west side of the plateau. By this time we will have joined Casto Road, which is a dirt road that leads right on into Panguitch. Estimated mileage from the Utah Border along this route to Panguitch is 88 miles.

The total mileage, Eagar to Panguitch, as close as I can figure, is about 560 miles. For insurance, I added a fudge factor of 25% to the miles that are not exactly documented by the AZT Association. That brings the mileage, on the long side, to about 620 miles.

During the first leg of our trip we learned a few things that are helping us on our planning for this leg. Foremost, we learned we can plan on an average of 15 miles per day. Some days are better, but some days are worse. When we did our original planning, we figured we would be making 20-25 miles per day after the first week of breaking the horses and ourselves in to the trail. Not so. We had also planned for two rest days per week. As it turned out, we rested only one day per week, trying to make our time schedule, because we found we were averaging only about 15 miles per day. This year we will plan for 15 miles per day and two rest days per week. With that in mind, our total travel time should be between 41 and 43 days, barring any long delays or mishaps. Traveling five days per week, that makes it between eight and nine weeks total travel time.

Scheduling all that out on a timeline, with us arriving at Panguitch on or about July 20, has us arriving at the Grand Canyon on or about June 29. That, in turn has us departing Eagar, Arizona, to embark on this momentous journey, on Monday, May 23, 2016.

That just happens to be the date of Dad’s 82nd birthday.

Happy Birthday, Dad.