Category Archives: Western Horsemanship

Blog posts regarding horse training, horse handling, and western riding

My New Fox Trotter Mare, Lizzy

When I decided I would buy a Fox Trotter as my trail horse, I was told one can not own only one Fox Trotter. Seems that has proven to be true. I recently came home with my second Fox Trotter, Lizzy.

Lizzy
Lizzy

Lizzy is a coming four year-old mare (May), registered Fox Trotter of good breeding, standing 15.1 hands. I bought her from a friend and Fox Trotter breeder out of Ephraim, Utah, named Michael George. Mike had heard I was looking around for a second horse, so on a ride he mentioned he had a young mare he would part with if I wanted to come look at her. He said he had brought her from Missouri to train as a working horse and use as a brood mare, but that she just didn’t have the lateral movement he looks for in a good working ranch horse. She moves down the road well and is a willing worker, but just didn’t have the movement he was looking for; for what I wanted she might do just fine. We talked about it a few times and I decided I would take the drive down to see her.

Seems like the best-laid plans can always go awry. I made arrangements half-a-dozen times to head down to see this little mare, but each time something would come up to side-track me. As things would turn out, I was invited by a mutual friend, Jon Tanner, to fill a slot in his trailer for a ride down in the Saint George, Utah area last weekend. Since Mike was also planning on attending that ride he agreed to take the mare, so I could take a look at her and evaluate her on the trail.

During two days of riding, some of it on pretty rough trails, I was favorably impressed by the young horse’s temperament and willingness on the trail. She proved to be very sure-footed and not prone to be excited or panicky. I didn’t take the opportunity to ride her, since I was busy trying to put a few more training miles on my gelding, Ranger. In retrospect, I should have traded horses with Mike for a few miles, just to get the feel of her. Regardless, I saw enough of her to convince me that I should buy her.

I made arrangements with Mike to meet him last Friday to finish the purchase and get the brand inspection done. As things would happen, again, I had to cancel and postpone the meeting, because I was called-in to work on a new part-time job I have acquired (to pay for my horse habit), and I didn’t feel right about trying to get out of it. I called Mike and explained. We put the meeting off until yesterday (Saturday). It turned out, however, that I got off work early on Friday, so I called Mike up and headed down his way.

Mike had explained to me that one can buy a lifetime brand inspection in Utah, that is transferrable to any new owner. It turns out that Utah State law requires a current brand inspection to transport a horse within the state, but with the lifetime inspection they issue a nice plastic card with a photograph of the horse that is good for as long as you own the horse. The lifetime inspection costs $25 and transfers to a new owner with a simple application and a $10 fee. Since I was going to have one horse inspected, I figured I might as well have both done at the same time, so I loaded up Ranger and took him along.

I arrived at Mike’s corrals around 3:30pm. I was greeted by several horses, all Fox Trotters, gathering around the truck and interested in the new arrivals.  After a minute or two most of the horses had satisfied their curiosity and moved off…all except for this one little colt that was constantly into everybody’s business and making a general nuisance of himself. That one belongs to Jon Tanner, and what a beaut he is. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a more precocious horse animal in my life. I told Jon that if he ever decides to get rid of that one, he is to call me first!

2015-02-28 15.00.05As I said, Lizzy is a registered Missouri Fox Trotter, and while I don’t know anything about MFT pedigree, Mike assures me she has some very nice lines in her pedigree. She is coming on 4 years old in May and she stands a measured 15.1 hands. She looks a bit on the small side, because she could use a little muscle and a few more pounds on her frame, but Mike actually measured her height with a gauge. I think she’s going to fill out nicely. She is sorrel with flaxen hocks, and once she slicks out, she just might end up with a flaxen mane and tail. She has a spot of brilliant white on her nose that isn’t quite a blaze. It looks more like she has some paint in her and it only showed in that one spot on her nose. Unique, and I like it. She has a longer back, in proportion to her height, than Ranger and her shoulder line may be a bit more vertical, but she has a good, deep chest and moves well. She has an old scar on her right rear pastern from a bad cut when she was younger, but it has healed up nicely. It doesn’t seem to cause her any tenderness and I did not see her favor it at all in two days of some pretty aggressive trail riding. Since I’m not going to be showing her, and since it was a contributing factor in the low price at which Mike offered her to me, I am OK with it.

I let Mike show me his process of handling and saddling the young mare and as he did so I began to realize she is a little more green than I had thought. She was a bit jumpy, due to the other horses ranging about, and a little less focused on what we were doing than she might otherwise have been. Mike took her out for a few minutes to work the kinks out before I got on her. I then took her down a dirt road a ways and into a pasture field for a test drive.

Lizzy with her new pasture mate and trail partner, Ranger
Lizzy with her new pasture mate and trail partner, Ranger

I found Lizzy to be less concerned with me than with the fact that she was leaving her pasture mates, but she continued ahead nonetheless. After a little riding around she began to settle down a bit and pay a little more attention to me. I was able to get her into a fox trot a time or two, but it was a very rough approximation of the gait. I was not able to get her into a flat walk, as she kept wanting to go from a slow walk right into a trot, due to her agitation at being away from her pasture mates with a rider she didn’t know. Eventually I was able to get her into a decent enough fox trot that I was sure that she will smooth out and produce a very nice gait with a little more work and training. She seems to be at about the same place with her training and gaits as Ranger was when I got him. He has begun to develop a very nice flat walk and fox trot and I’m sure a few more miles on Lizzy will produce the same results.

The one thing about her gaits that concerns me at this point is her walk. She has about the most exaggerated “camel-walk” I’ve ever ridden. It is very uncomfortable and would be a killer to ride that walk for a full day’s ride. She has an enormous over-step, back to front, of maybe 12-14 inches, about the longest I’ve ever seen in a horse her size (being mostly acquainted with Quarter Horse types, myself). She walks with an extremely long stride, causing a very pronounced up and down motion in her withers, however, once she speeds up just a bit, that seems to go away. Once her flat walk develops, I think she’ll be a very comfortable horse to ride. Once I got her moving comfortably, she seemed to step out nicely at a speed that will match Ranger’s pace very well. I am told the long over-step is one of the factors that contributes to a fast and smooth fox trot. I have seen that in other fox trotters, particularly the big gelding Jon Tanner rides.

MIke George on Lizzy at Red Mountain Trail
MIke George on Lizzy at Red Mountain Trail

Having watched her move and negotiate some rough trails the week before, I had noticed none of the few negative issues I’ve just mentioned, so I’m pretty sure it was mostly her anxiety at having a strange rider on her and being so near, yet so far from, her pasture mates. I’m satisfied that she’ll smooth out and become a very comfortable ride with a smooth, fast gait eventually.

But right now, I have about one month to get her tuned up for a very long ride.

Lizzy is a little light – could use a few more pounds – and a little greener than I would have preferred, but I’m pleased with my new mare and look forward to many, many pleasurable miles with her and Ranger.

How do you like my training arena?

I took Ranger out this afternoon for a training ride. We worked on his gaits, neck reining, controlling his hind and front quarters, backing, stops, and general paying attention. How do you like my training arena?

2015-01-09 12.41.49I found an old abandoned gravel pit not far from where I keep Ranger. It makes a great place for me to work on his mountain trail skills as well as his control skills. So far he’s been impressive. He is extremely sure-footed, quite strong, and very athletic. There are a lot of places to work on steep ascents and descents and the terrain is quite rocky, which will toughen up his hooves. There are also a few long ascents on which I can work on improving his strength and endurance. It’s the perfect training arena for me.

I have been working on keeping his attention focused on the trail ahead of him. He is still suffering from a bit of buddy and barn sour-itis, so I find him often looking in the direction of home and veering off in that direction without a cue from me. When he does that – and I mean even the slightest look in that direction – I pull him into a tight circle with pressure both on the bosal and leg pressure, and sometimes with a touch of the spur. He’s doing a lot better now. There are few things I like less than a horse that is constantly wandering from side to side on the trail, because he’s trying to look toward home or his buddies. I don’t mind a horse that looks around a bit, as long as he stays on the trail and going the direction I point him. I very much enjoy riding a horse that is interested in the trail ahead as much as I am and worries as little about the trail behind him as I do.

I used spurs on Ranger for the first time today, to see how he would react with them. He surprised me by showing that once upon a time he received some good training, probably only 30 days or so when he was two or three, but good training nonetheless. I found that he responded to cues with the spurs that he hadn’t quite figured out just with my heels. Not that he wasn’t responsive with my heels, just that he didn’t recognize what I wanted and it was like teaching him from the get-go. With the spurs he quickly started remembering his former training and I was able to get him to move his fore and hind quarters very well, much better than if I were just starting to teach him. It will still take a bit of work to get him to pick it all up again, but it was obvious he was remembering things from former training. That was a pleasant surprise.

2015-01-09 12.41.53We also worked a bit on trailer loading. I have started working on that at the end of every ride. Seems that he is more in a training mind-set when we get back than when we start. After the ride, once I load him into the trailer I feed him a little and let him rest while I brush him. He is beginning to be much less resistant. I think another week or so will have him walking into the trailer unassisted, which is what I’m looking for.

On the trailer training, I found the resistance-release method works best with him, particularly since I have no helpers. With his halter on and a 12′ lead, I may work on yielding his hind quarters and doing a few other simple exercises to get him focused on me, paying attention, and being obedient. Then I will walk into the trailer, expecting him to simply follow me in (I have a 4-horse slant-load). When that doesn’t happen, from inside the trailer I put fairly heavy pressure on the lead, but not enough to make him want to pull back, and kiss to him, which is my “move” cue for him. Within a couple minutes he will get tired and take a step forward. When (not “if”) he takes that step, no matter how small, I immediately release all pressure an give him a scratch on the forehead and a pat on the neck, without allowing him to back up that step we just gained. I then repeat the process as many times as necessary until I have him stepping into the trailer. It takes patience and persistence. You cannot release pressure until he complies, even a little bit, or you will defeat the training. Also, as the training progresses I require a little more compliance each time, on his part, before releasing pressure. I don’t want him to learn that minimal effort is all that I require.

2015-01-09 12.48.15One other thing I learned today about Ranger. He is so short-coupled that when we are ascending a steep trail, I have to pull my heels back and up out of the way or my spurs will hit his stifles. He really pulls those back legs up under him when he’s ascending. Never had that happen with a Quarter Horse.

Today’s ride was a nice one and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Temperatures were in the 40s and no breeze at all. It was nice. Ranger and I are starting to figure each other out and his training is progressing well.

 

 

 

 

Good Memories on Father’s Day

I have one of my married daughters and a grandson visiting for Father’s Day (2014). Got me remembering a horse I once had.

I picked up Max from a horse trader, who informed me Max was a 5-year old mustang (not a branded BLM mustang, but a mustang nonetheless) who was taken off the range and gelded a few months before I came across him. He was stout, not too tall (about 13.3 hands), good hooves, and looked like a tough little gelding. Just what I wanted.  When I bought him he had obviously been “cowboy broke” and really didn’t know much of anything. He was submissive, but not trusting and not completely gentled. He has a handful on the ground because of that.

Soon after I bought him, my young daughters (ages about 11 and 9) wanted to come see him. Of course they also wanted to bring some of their friends. I agreed and gave them all a dress code of long pants and shoes (no sandals or flip-flops). I stopped by the feed store on the way and bought several brushes. I had an idea.

I haltered Max and walked him out to the round pen and tied him pretty short to a solid post.  I messed with him until he settled down a bit. I then gave each girl a brush and warned them about getting stepped on. I then gave each one instructions as to what I wanted them to do. I started working on getting Max to let me lift his hooves while each girl picked a different spot on him to brush.

At first Max didn’t know what to think, but since there were so many people working with him at one time, on so many different parts of him, he couldn’t focus on any one thing to worry about, and since it all felt pretty good, I suppose, he quickly settled down an spent the better part of an hour just letting the girls mess and brush while I worked on getting him to let me lift and clean each hoof. He was truly relaxed and seemed to be enjoying the experience completely. I have read that the Nez Perce indians, who were known for their horsemanship and gentling methods, used a similar technique after capturing a wild horse. By the time we were done, he was a different horse. I think we became his “herd” that day.

Max in training, when I first got him
Max in training, when I first got him

It was amazing what that short little gentling session did for Max. He and I still had our go-rounds as we figured each other out (he was the second horse ever to put me in the dirt more than once), but he turned out to be a very good trail horse and a good friend to me. He was always hard to handle for other riders, but for me he was just what I needed at that time of my life. I had a lot of good rides on him.

When he was about 10, I was transferred out of country. Had to leave him. I gave him to the daughter of the people who owned the pasture I kept him in. She loved him, but was afraid to ride him. He lived in a 40-acre pasture with about 4-8 other horses, depending on the year, and I don’t think he was ever ridden again. I visited him about three years later, with two of my daughters. We drove out into the pasture and parked. I whistled for Max, the way I used to, and was pleased to see his head come up and his ears perk. He immediately started our way, leaving the small herd of horses without hesitation.

There we were, with no halter, no lead rope, no brushes, but we all got around him and just rubbed and petted him. It was obvious he missed that. The older daughter (age 16 then), asked if she could get on him. I told her I didn’t think that was a good idea, since we had no halter or lead, and I didn’t know how he would react, since I was sure he hadn’t been ridden, or even handled, since the last time I rode him years before. She insisted, so I told her that if he reacted, she was to simply slide off his side and into the grass, and not try to stay on.

I gave her a leg up and she slid easily onto his back. Max simply stood there and seemed to be pleased. My youngest daughter (age 9), seeing that, wouldn’t be left out and insisted she be allowed to get on behind the first. So I gave her a leg up and she slid up behind. Old Max didn’t seem to mind at all.

Back when Max was my horse, when I couldn’t ride I would often take my kids out to see him, put them on his back, and lead him around the pasture at a walk – of course, with a halter and lead rope. With him standing there so calmly, I wondered if he would remember. I started walking away from him, with my two daughters on his back, bareback, with no halter or lead rope. Max simply turned and followed. I walked all over that pasture, through the trees, over the irrigation ditch, around the pond, with Max contentedly following at my shoulder, and my girls smiling all the while.

That was the last time I saw my old mustang Max, and it was a good day.

Max and Ed, taken during a horse camping expedition with one of my daughters
Max and Ed, taken during a horse camping expedition with one of my daughters

An excellent memory for a nice Father’s Day.

Making Steep Ascents and Descents on the Trail

A recent post by Jon Tanner on the Horse Trails and Camping Across America facebook group about a ride he took to Robber’s Roost, in southern Utah, brought some comments that showed a wide range of experience (and lack thereof) with regards to ascents and descents on a horse. There have also been a couple other related threads recently with regard to trail riding. Thought I’d offer a post about it, based on quite a few years of experience riding the rough trails, hoping to dispel some of the misgivings and erroneous ideas I saw posted.

Dropping into Robber's Roost, southern Utah (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)
Dropping into Robber’s Roost, southern Utah (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)

When one is riding mountain trails, even ones that are well-maintained, there is always the chance that you might have to deviate from the trail for a short distance to avoid a problem in the trail, be it a wash-out, a fallen tree, or even a dead animal (or maybe a live one!). This could require you to make a steep ascent or descent, or both, to circumvent the obstacle. I was once reading an article in Trail Rider magazine in which the author provided a picture of a mountain trail that was somewhat narrow and a bit washed out, with the caption that the trail “was obviously impassable”. I found that caption to be somewhat humorous, as I run into worse trails on my pack trips quite often. Differences in experience and training, I suppose.

Riding rough trails in southern Utah (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)
Riding rough trails in southern Utah (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)

In recent years, many of the older, lesser-known trails in wilderness areas and on public lands outside state and national parks have fallen into decay, as the US Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management no longer maintain them. Often, the only remaining vestiges of a trail are the ancient blaze marks on large pine trees. These are the trails I love the most. These are the trails that take you to places no one has visited in many, many years. In trying to follow these trails, frequent detours are necessary, due to fallen trees and washouts, and more recently,  wildfire burns. Most of them, however, are still “passable” with a little care and thought. These are the trails that are not for the faint of heart, and where experience and training, both for the rider and the horse, really pay off.

Imagine running into a washed out trail on a steep sidehill 20 miles into a 50 mile pack trip. Now what do you do? What if you have a pack horse or two in tow, how do you turn them around on a steep hillside? Often, the safest thing to do is to simply keep going and let the horse pick its way around the obstacle, but sometimes it takes an experienced hand on the reins, and even a touch or two with the spurs to safely pick out an alternate route and keep the horse on it.

In my training of trail horses, I make regular steep ascents and descents to teach the horse a couple of things. First, I want the horse to learn that I am in command, no matter where we are and no matter what I ask of the horse. It must learn to trust me…or at the very least to be obedient. Second, I want the horse to learn how to manage my weight on his back during ascents and descents. As the horse gains experience, it will begin to learn to pick out its path and to place its feet well to keep itself balanced with the load on its back.

Coming down into a canyon (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)
Coming down into a canyon (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)

Some people believe that the horse should be given its head and allowed to choose its own path up or down a grade. Once a horse is experienced, that is somewhat true, but an inexperienced horse can put itself and rider into dangerous situations. An inexperienced horse, when faced with a steep descent, will often get partway down, hesitate, then attempt to turn and head back up to the trail. When this happens, one must have a firm hand on the reins and may need to use a quirt or spurs, or even the loose end of the reins, to coax the horse to continue down the slope. If the horse is allowed to turn and attempt to head back upslope, it puts itself into an imbalanced position, as your weight shifts from his shoulders to his hips, and your weight could easily pull him over backwards, which could very well become a deadly situation for both horse and rider.

A similar situation can occur with an inexperienced horse trying to make a steep ascent. Horses tend to be more willing to make steep ascents, however, a horse inexperienced at carrying the weight of a rider, and up to 75 pounds of tack and gear, up a slope may very well choose a route that is too steep for the load he is carrying. If a horse should choose to abort an ascent and turn and head back down to the trail, the situation is much less dangerous than a change during a descent. A horse can easily turn and head back downhill, even with a load, without much problem. The load of a rider shifting from the hips to the shoulders is much more controllable for the horse than the reverse.

A steep descent on rocky terrain (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)
A steep descent on rocky terrain (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)

Some have said that a horse should not be allowed to turn sideways on a steep hill. In my experience, the danger comes when the horse attempts to turn in a descent and go back up the hill. I have no problem allowing a horse to turn sideways to rest or to traverse the hill for a short way to access a better descent route. The same in an ascent. The caveat here is the footing. If, as in the photos Jon showed, the footing is the “slickrock” Utah is famous for, straight up or down allows the horse the best chance of remaining balanced if he should slip. If the footing is deep soil, sand, or gravel, I still prefer a straight or slightly angled ascent or descent.

If the ascent or descent is a long one, say 100 feet or more, an angled approach may be the best way, as the horse will be exerting himself a little less, particularly in a long, steep ascent. Again, I have no problem allowing the horse to stop sideways on the hillside to rest.

Steep trail with drops and ledges (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)
Steep trail with drops and ledges (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)

Back to the topic of allowing the horse to choose the path. It is my experience that an experienced trail horse is very good at watching and placing its hooves, but not very good a picking a path. They tend to look no farther ahead than their next two or three steps..which is exactly what I want them to be doing. Therefore, in my opinion, it is the rider’s responsibility to pick out the best route and the horse’s job to safely get them both there. As a side-note, I have discovered over the years, that the horses that I have left barefoot during their training and for most of the year are better at watching their foot placement than horses that are regularly shod. However, all horses, regardless of training, shoes, or barefoot, seem to get better at watching where they walk after about the second day in the mountains. Many are, as my dad used to call me, “stumble-bums” when they first hit the trails.

Other tidbits:

I like to keep a fairly firm hand on the reins during a steep descent. It allows the horse to use the leverage of your hands on the reins to keep himself balanced and keeps the horse from getting ahead of itself and descending too fast. While this may be hard on the horse’s mouth at times, it can allow a slipping horse to pull itself back into a balanced position. The opposite is true if the horse is asked to jump up or down a drop. In this case a very loose rein should be given, to allow the horse to jump and extend his neck and head without hitting the bit.

When traversing a particularly bad spot in the trail, I will sometimes pull my feet from the stirrups, or at least from the downhill one, and prepare, in case it should be necessary to bail. I want to be able to land on the uphill side of the horse, should it slip and roll over. I have had to make a quick escape from the saddle more than once.

Dropping down into Robber's Roost, southern Utah (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)
Dropping down into Robber’s Roost, southern Utah (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)

There are times when it is the wisest course to dismount and walk, allowing the horse to make the ascent/descent without the burden of a rider. This is particularly true if the rider is inexperienced or fearful. A panicked rider can easily pull a horse off balance that would otherwise easily handle the detour. However, a person on foot should avoid getting directly downhill or uphill from the horse. If you must lead a horse through a steep descent or ascent, use a long lead rope and try to stay to the side of the horse’s path. The horse will want to follow your path, so stay well ahead of the horse, and if possible, lead the horse on a path slanting up or down the hill. This will keep you from getting directly below or above the horse on the slope. If another horse has gone down before you, simply tie up your reins to the saddle and let the horse follow the other horse down the hill. When leading a horse up an ascent, again, stay to the side of the horse’s path, or at least a good couple yards ahead. If you get directly above the horse on the slope, it may try to turn directly toward you and begin lunging uphill. A lunging horse can easily run upon you and cause you severe injury. If you are following another horse that has gone up before you, again, simply allow the horse to go ahead. He’ll be fine. If your horse has been trained to allow this, you can also hold the horse’s tail and allow him to pull you up the slope. Most horses don’t mind this, especially while they are concentrating on getting up the hill.

Coming upslope (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)
Coming upslope (Courtesy of Jon Tanner)

In summary, there are times when steep ascents and descents will be unavoidable on the trail. Normally, the best course of action is to remain mounted and let the horse do its job, however, there are times when dismounting may be the best alternative, when done safely. Training and experience are invaluable in such situations and can turn what some may perceive as an “obviously impassable” trail into an opportunity for good photos and a great post on facebook, during a memorable trail ride.

Happy Trails!

P.S.

I would love to have been able to add a bunch of great photos from my rides to go along with this post, but when one is trying to work through a difficult situation like those described, nobody is thinking about the camera! All my pictures are in beautiful spots where everything is peaceful and pretty. That’s something I’ll have to work on in the future.

Jon Tanner graciously provided several photos from his rides that worked out great for the post. Thanks much, Jon.

If you would like to see a horse and rider doing a descent even I would wince at, watch the movie “Big Jake”, starring John Wayne. There is no movie magic in that one. Just a gutsy rider on an exceptional horse.

Chronic Cribbing in horses

Cribbing, not to be confused with simple wood chewing, is a stereotypical behavior in horses, in which the horse places its upper front teeth on an object and applies down pressure. As it does so, the horse makes a belching sound, then relaxes for a few seconds, before doing it all again. The primary theory behind cribbing, is that the action of applying pressure with the front teeth allows the horse to suck in a gulp of air, which somehow causes the release of endorphins in the horses system, causing a pleasurable sensation. In other words, it’s an addiction. It is considered an unsoundness in horses and causes the buildup of the lower neck muscles in some horses, which can be somewhat unattractive.

Cribbing has also been linked to other equine ailments, such as stomach ulcers, colic, flatulence,  and other nervous obsessive behaviors.

Treatments for cribbing, over the years, none of which has enjoyed any consistent degree of success, involves everything from simply giving the horse more pasture time, to the wearing of restrictive cribbing collars, and even surgery to cut certain nerves and muscles in the neck to make the horse unable to crib.

Interestingly, as I have read various articles about cribbing, I only found one reference to any scientific data regarding the behavior.  Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine, Boston, MA, a number of years ago, experimented with injecting horses with a drug that blocks endorphins in the horse’s system. They saw a marked decrease in the horses’ cribbing while the drug was actively being administered, however the horses returned to cribbing once it wore off. That is the single reference of any kind I was able to come up with in support of the endorphin addiction theory, despite the fact that this theory has been considered doctrinal in veterinary medicine for years.

I recently came across the abstract from a paper on cribbing that indicated the belching sound one hears as a horse cribs, may be an actual belch. The study said that evidence had been produced to indicate that feeding highly concentrated feed, such as grain or sweet feed, may cause some horses to experience gastric discomfort, and that the act of cribbing may actually allow the horse to belch and release gas pressure inside the stomach, or it may stimulate the salivary glands, sending saliva into the stomach to bring relief. I could not find the link for the study again to post it.

In light of this study, it makes sense that cribbing would be associated with ailments such as ulcers, colic, and flatulence, not as a result of the cribbing, but as a result of the gastric distress caused by a sensitivity to the feed. I found an article here from the ASPCA, that discusses cribbing in more detail and more authoritatively than I can.

Robbie cribbing on his favorite pipe fence
Robbie cribbing on his favorite pipe fence

A horse I help care for is a chronic cribber. He’s 21 years old and has been cribbing pretty much all his life. He has lived with a cribbing collar much of his life. His front teeth are worn short. He has selected a section of steel pipe fence as his favorite cribbing tool and has actually bent the pipe flat where he cribs. While cribbing he becomes so intent on what he is doing that it is hard to drive him away from the pipe fence section, and as soon as he can get around me, he goes right back to it. In the picture, you can see he is cribbing with full force, despite his tightly fitted cribbing collar.

Not long after I read the above-referenced abstract, we had a cold snap here in Virginia. I told the owners of the horse, whose son is responsible for feeding the horses, to start feeding a couple quarts of “sweet feed” (a grain feed with molasses mixed in) in the evenings, along with their normal ration of hay, to help them deal with the cold. A few days later I went by to check on the horses and found this particular horse at the pipe fence cribbing. It suddenly dawned on me that I hadn’t seen him cribbing for many months, until then. I contacted the owners and suggested we increase the horses’ ration of hay and stop feeding the grain. I went by this past week to ride my horse and check on the other. He was calmly grazing out in the pasture.

He came up to the barn as I brushed and readied my horse for the ride. I removed his cribbing collar and tossed him a couple flakes of hay (orchard grass). I took my horse out for a 2-hour ride. When I returned, the horse was again calmly grazing in the pasture. As I unsaddled and worked on my horse for a few minutes, I watched the cribber. He walked up to his favorite pipe fence section and placed his mouth on the fence, as he normally does when he cribs, but only tried it once or twice and quit, neither did he do it with the strength he normally does (which bent the steel pipe fence), then he went right back to grazing. It appeared he tried the cribbing out of habit, rather than out of an addictive need.

From my own experience, I think I can safely say that for this particular horse, the endorphin addiction, if any exists, is less the cause of his cribbing than an upset stomach from feed that is too rich for him. Just as there are people who have sensitivities to milk, eggs, and other things that most of us enjoy, it makes sense to me that some horses may have similar intolerances to certain feeds. For this particular horse, it appears that grains and sweet feed cause him sufficient discomfort that he cribs to relieve it. When he is fed orchard grass hay he does not crib, or better said, he only does it occasionally, apparently out of old habit.

While my findings are neither scientific nor conclusive, at the very least it appears to me there may be sufficient reason to question current theories regarding chronic cribbing and to warrant further scientific study.

Here is a video of this particular horse cribbing:

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_edit?ns=1&video_id=BTV6OalpscY

 

How to cure a head-shy horse

Occasionally, I come across a horse that, for one reason or another, does not like to be touched around the ears or face. There are a number of reasons why this might be so, but mostly it is simply a bad habit the horse has formed.

Last year I started working with a neighbor’s horse, which was once a well-trained reining horse. My friends hadn’t spent much time with the horse over the previous couple of years, and he had become a 19 year-old pasture ornament. They invited me to work with the gelding and get him back into riding shape. Right-off I noticed, as they tried to catch and halter the old fellow, that he was very hard to handle to get a halter on him. He did not like to be touched in the poll area or around his ears. After taking a closer look, I found he is required to wear a tight-fitting cribbing collar. He is one of the few true cribbers I have known. I will write another post on cribbing later.

I determined that his cribbing collar hadn’t been removed for a very long time, and that it was making him sore in the poll area, where the head is attached to the neck, up near the ears.  When one tried to touch him in that area, he would pull back and raise his head and fight, making it very hard to halter or bridle him.

The mark from the cribbing collar
The mark from the cribbing collar

Here’s what I did to cure him of that:

First, I got him in a halter and removed the cribbing strap. I brushed the area and groomed the horse to calm him and get to know him a little.  Next, I stood at his head, facing him, but off to the side a little, so as not to get knocked out of the way when he threw his head up.  I held his lead rope, very close to the halter, with my left hand. With my right hand I started at his forehead and quickly swept my hand up and over one ear. earrub1

 

 

He jerked his head up, but by the time he reacted, my hand was already past his ear and no longer touching him.

earrub.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

I continued to do this until he got tired of jerking his head. I alternated ears as I continued, to get the same result with both ears. He quickly realized that jerking his head did nothing for him, since my hand was long gone before he even tried. I also had my left hand on the lead rope. Adding a little weight there made him physically tired and uncomfortable after repeatedly jerking his head up.

A horse, like any animal, including humans, is physically engineered by evolutionary development, to conserve energy. Instinctively, he wants to conserve energy. The jerking of his head quickly registers in his instinctive brain as a complete waste of energy. It gains him nothing, neither in security, nor in survival, because the perceived danger is gone before he reacts to it.

After about three or four sessions of this, lasting about 15-20 minutes or so each session, he quit reacting altogether. Once he stopped jerking his head, I began to actually run my hand up his forehead and lightly rub his ears and poll. Eventually he began to actually enjoy the attention and now he even likes the insides of his ears rubbed.

Now he likes it
Now he likes it

Here is a video I did, that may help you understand the process better.

How to cure a head-shy horse

How to bridle a horse

Often, new horse owners, and sometimes long-time owners with no formal training, have a hard time getting the bridle on a horse and getting the horse to accept the bit. Here is a short tutorial on how to properly bridle a horse.

Now, before I start, it should be understood that there are many reasons why a horse might be hard to bridle. For instance, a horse with an abscess in its mouth might find the bit very uncomfortable. A horse that is head-shy may not let you get close enough to get the bridle on its head. Once physical discomfort and other behavioral issues are ruled-out, however, using the proper technique in bridling a horse will make things much easier on the owner as well as the horse, and will eventually convince the horse that receiving the bridle isn’t such a bad thing, after all.

Now, let’s assume you have the horse haltered, standing, and ready to be bridled. Let’s do a little preparation work. Lay your hand on top of the horse’s head, just behind his ears. The horse should lower his head for you. His head should be at a comfortable working height for you as you bridle him. If he doesn’t, you need to teach him to do this.  Here’s how:

Place your right hand on top of his head, just behind the ears, and with your left hand, take hold of the lead rope right at the halter.  Put pressure on top of the head, while adding weight to the halter with the other hand. It doesn’t have to be a lot of pressure, just enough that the horse feels pressure and it is a little uncomfortable or irritating to him. Eventually he will bob his head a little.

Put a little weight on the halter and on the poll
Put a little weight on the halter and on the poll

When he does, and I mean exactly when he does, release the pressure from both hands and rub the horse’s neck.  Do it again, and again, each time holding the pressure a little longer, asking him to lower his head a little further. Pretty soon, the horse will figure out that when you place your hand on his head at the poll (where the neck and skull meet), you want him to lower his head. You can actually train the horse to lower his head and put his muzzle in the dirt, if you want to, but I see no reason for that. I just want him to pay attention and lower his head while I bridle him.

Now, if you are going to leave the halter on under the bridle, you are ready to start. If you intend to remove the halter, unbuckle or untie it, but do not completely remove it. Instead, while retaining control of his head, let the nose band slip off his nose and rebuckle the halter around the horse’s neck.  Often I will see people simply drop the halter to the ground as they bridle the horse, or wrap the bridle reins around the horse’s neck. Make it a habit to keep the halter and lead rope on the horse while bridling and always retain control of your horse. If you are out on a trail or horse camp and you completely remove the halter while bridling, the horse may well decide he’s free to wander back home and you might end up on foot for the remainder of the trip!

Now, with the halter around the horse’s neck, drop the reins on the ground, or loop them over your arm, so they don’t get in your way. Place your right forearm on top of the horse’s neck, such that your right hand is hanging over his forehead between his ears.Your forearm and elbow on the horse’s neck gives you some control while you are handling the bridle with both hands.

Hold the headstall with your right thumb
Hold the headstall with your right thumb

Now take the top of the headstall in your right thumb, so that the bridle is hanging with the bit below the horse’s mouth. Take the bit in your left hand and capture the horse’s muzzle between the cheek pieces of the bridle. This give you a little more control (not really, but the horse thinks it does, and that’s what counts!). Cradle the bit in your left hand, as shown in the photo below. Your thumb should be on top of the bit, with your first two fingers under the bit, and your last two fingers outside the bit shank. The chin strap should be lying on your wrist, as shown.

Cradle the bit in your hand
Cradle the bit in your hand

The way the bit is positioned in your hand is important, as you will see in just a minute. Now, drop the bridle down, by bending your right wrist (the one on the horse’s head) down, to where the bit is hanging just below the horse’s lips. Now lift with your right wrist (not the one with the bit in it), gently lifting the bit up between the horse’s lips. Some horses, at this point will simply open their mouths and you can lift the bit right on up into position. Most, in my experience, will not, and you will need to coax them to open their mouth.

Do this by inserting your thumb between the horse’s gums in the side of his mouth.

Insert thumb into his mouth
Insert thumb into his mouth

You will feel his tongue. Wiggle your thumb a little and the horse will open his mouth. When he does, simply lift with your right wrist (again, the one on top of his head) and lift the bit into position. At this point the horse will close his mouth on the bit and hold it while you hold the bridle in place with your right hand. Check to make sure the chinstrap has come into the correct position behind the horse’s chin.

Now, holding the top of the headstall with your right hand, slip your left hand through the headstall and pull his off-side ear (the right one) through, then do the same with the near-side ear, or simply tuck it through with your right thumb. Let the headstall settle into place behind his ears. Adjust the mane and forelock, so that there are no uncomfortable tangles or lumps of hair under the bridle. Now check to make sure the brow band is in place and not covering an eye or bothering his ears. Check the other side of the bridle to make sure the throatlatch has not gotten hung up in the bridle. Now pull the throatlatch under the horse’s throat and buckle it. If the bridle has been used on this horse, or a similarly sized horse in the past, you will likely see a mark on the throatlatch where it has been regularly buckled at the correct position. Use that mark as a reference, but check anyway, to make sure it is not too tight or too loose.

Check the throatlatch fit
Check the throatlatch fit

The only purpose of the throatlatch is to keep the bridle from slipping off over the horse’s ears, should it somehow get snagged on something, or in case the horse should try to rub it off on a tree or post. It should not be tight. Check the fit by slipping your fist between the horse’s jaw and the throatlatch, as shown in the photo. Now check to make sure the bridle is sized properly and that the bit is hanging in the right place in the horse’s mouth. If the bit is too high or too low, adjust both sides of the bridle’s cheek pieces until it is right.

The bit should rest between the horse’s gums on the bars between his front and rear teeth. Normally, you will see one or two slight wrinkles in the sides of the horse’s mouth if the bit is in its proper place. A bit that hangs too low can bang against the horse’s front teeth and become uncomfortable. A bit that sits too high can hit the molars, or allow a horse to “get the bit in his teeth”. If that happens, you can lose control of the horse in a hurry (ergo the common phrase relating to a stubborn or out-of-control person). Many horses, particularly geldings, grow “wolf teeth” just in front of their molars that can interfere with the bit and become uncomfortable if it is not in the correct position. Many owners have these teeth removed when the horse is young.

Contrary to uneducated, but common opinion, a bit is not uncomfortable in a horse’s mouth. Even the harshest-looking bit is only harsh when it is used improperly by the rider, when the horse is not trained sufficiently to the bit, or when the horse is disobedient. Many bits are made of “sweet steel” and actually taste good to the horse. Some bits have a “cricket” or roller that the horse can use its tongue to play with. This sometimes calms a horse with a nervous temperament.

Now, to properly un-bridle a horse, simply reverse the process.  First, get a rope or halter around the horse’s neck. Remember, always be in control. Now, unbuckle the throatlatch. Next, put your right hand on top of the poll to ask the horse to lower his head. Now place the right hand and forearm on top of the horse’s head and neck for control. Hook the top of the headstall with your right thumb. Place your left hand under the horse’s mouth. Slip the headstall over the horse’s ears and gently lower the wrist, lowering the bit into your waiting left hand. Be careful not to bang the bit against the horse’s teeth as you lower the bit.

Maintain control of the horse’s head throughout the un-bridling process, as some horses will want to immediately spit the bit out and raise their head. Spit and run! This is a bad habit and should be stopped. If the horse attempts it, simply raise the right wrist and pull the bit back into the horse’s mouth and retain control with your forearm on the neck. Wait until the horse is compliant before removing the bit from its mouth. Removal of the bit should be a reward for good behavior, not for spitting and running.

Watch the video I made on this topic. It will help you understand some of the details above a little better.

How to Bridle a Horse
Hope it helps.

How to get on a horse

In response to a question on a horse forum I participate in, I posted a short instructional on the proper and safe way to mount a horse in a western saddle.  It occurred to me that it would make a good post here on my blog, as well. Several months ago I made a short video on it, so I will link that at the end.

The mounting technique I am going to explain was developed more than a century and a half ago, and has been practiced since, by cowboys who, often as not, rode half-broke broncs every day as part of their job.  They broke horses by roping them, saddling them, then hopping in the saddle and riding them until they stopped bucking.  Many of those horses never really got fully broke, and many mornings the cowboys enjoyed a short rodeo session to warm up on before heading out for a day of punching cows.

Because of that, they developed a method of mounting a horse that allowed them to maintain full control of the animal from the ground until they were fully seated in the saddle. Even if the horse bolted or launched into the sky in a full-bore bucking fit as the cowboy started to mount, he could safely continue into the saddle while maintaining full control of the horse’s head with a free hand on the reins.  This technique has been largely lost nowadays, and I have seen reputable instructors and trainers who mount improperly, at least not the way the cowboys “back in the day” did it.

Before we start the tutorial, just a few basic tidbits of information.  Cowboys always mounted from the left side of a horse.  There is a reason for this.  It is because most folks are right-handed. That means the cowboy wanted his reins in the left hand. Why that? Mostly tradition. That’s the way it’s been done throughout history. Soldiers, warriors, and folks in general have always been mostly right-handed. They had to have their right hand free to handle their weapon. The cowboy had to have his right hand free to palm his trusty revolver in case something needed killing, or to pull out his lariat and rope a steer.  His right hand was for working, while the left was for handling the horse. Most trail riders will also train a horse to allow one to mount and dismount on the right side, since you never know when that might be necessary on a mountain trail. You never want to mount or dismount on the downhill side. You might pull the horse over on top of you.

Now for a little nomenclature on the western saddle.  You have a horn.  It is to hold onto, and to dally a rope to, or to hang stuff on.  It sits up front on top of the pommel. The pommel is the big thing between your legs that the horn sits on, sometimes known as the fork, or the swells. Many saddles from the late 1800s to 1950s have large swells, which allow you to hang on with your knees while your horse sows his “wild seeds”. See?  Then there is the seat, which, obviously, is the part your tush sits on. Behind the seat you have the cantle, which is like a mini-backrest. It rises up to sort of cradle your bottom and helps you stay in the saddle.  English saddles don’t really have a cantle,

Antique "high-back" saddle with brass horn
Antique “high-back” saddle with brass horn

nor a horn for that matter (which is why English riders wear helmets rather than cowboy hats!).  Then you have the stirrups.  They hold your feet, so your boots don’t fall off while riding. They are suspended from the saddle by leather straps called, surprisingly, “stirrup leathers”.  Stirrup leathers normally have a sweat flap attached, which protects your leg from the sweat of the horse. The whole shebang is held on the horse by a cinch, sometimes known by the original Spanish term “cincha”.  The cinch is normally a belt woven of mohair or cotton strings, that wraps under the horse’s belly and ties on either side to the “rigging” of the saddle by leather straps called a “latigo” (left side) and a “billet” (right side). Some modern cinches are made of neoprene or felt, for those high-speed, low-drag folks leaping into the 20th century on horseback…wait, what century is this, anyway?

Western bridle with curb bit, chin strap, and reins
Western bridle with curb bit, chin strap, and reins

Now for the bridle.  You have a headstall. It hangs over the horse’s head, held in place by the horse’s ears.  It hangs down and generally holds a metal bit in place in the horse’s mouth. Connected to the bit is a chin strap (self-explanatory) and a set of reins.

In today’s world, many people prefer bitless bridles, but that’s another discussion for another post. For our purposes here, just assume a bit.

First, we’ll assume the horse is properly saddled and bridled.

Take the reins in the left hand above the horse’s neck, just forward of the saddle. Now snug the reins up until you feel contact with the horse’s mouth, through the bit. This keeps the horse from wandering off while you’re trying to mount. Some experienced horse trainers, on a greenbroke (barely broke, barely trained) horse, will shorten the left rein and pull the horse’s head around to the left as they mount. This helps the rider maintain control of the horse while mounting, by not allowing the horse to lower his head and engage his rear end to buck.

So, there you are with the reins snugged up. Stand right by the horse’s front left leg and face the rear of the horse. That way the horse can’t reach you if he decides to kick you. A horse can kick out forward and sideways with his rear hoof, in what we call a “cowkick”.  If you mount a horse that is prone to cowkicking in the way most folks mount, you are liable to get a surprise right in the back pockets.

Now, without letting go of the reins, take a big ole handful of mane, about a foot in front of the saddle, with your left hand.  I mean a big ole handful! It’s not like pulling hair on your head. It doesn’t bother the horse at all.  So, now you are standing facing the rear, with your reins and a big handful of mane in your left hand. With your right hand, grab the stirrup and turn it, so you can put your left foot into it. Now put your foot into it.

Big ol' handful of mane and the horn
Big ol’ handful of mane and the horn

Now, reach up with your right hand and grab the horn.  Again, grab the hornnot the cantle.  So, there you are, with your left hand holding the reins and a big handful of mane, your left foot in the stirrup, and your right hand on the horn…again…on the horn. Novices, and some smart folks who don’t know better, will grab the horn with their left hand and the cantle with their right.  I’ll explain in a minute why that can get you hurt.

Now, using your left hand and right hand to pull your weight until you can use the strength in your leg, stand up in the left stirrup.  Stand straight up, not bent over the saddle. You may need to give a little “hop” to get up.  That’s fine.  Just don’t hop up and over.  Keep your balance and stand straight up.  That’s important.  Now just swing your right leg over the cantle and sit into the seat. Find the stirrup with your right foot, poke it in, and there you are. Properly mounted in a western saddle.

Now, why am I so anal-retentive about this technique? Let me “splain”. Let’s say you are mounting a horse you don’t know, in the way your buddy at the boarding stable showed you.  You take up the reins with your left hand, grab the horn with it, stick your left foot in the stirrup, then grab the cantle with your right hand.

Left hand on horn, right on cantle - Not!
Left hand on horn, right on cantle – Not!

Now you hike yourself up with a mighty heave…but while you are on your way up the horse gets spooked by your snot-nosed little brother, who thought it would be fun to see what happens when he shoots the horse in the rump with a rubber-band gun.  So, there you are, hanging on for dear life as your horse charges through the stable area. You can’t pull the reins, because your left hand is holding onto the horn.  If you let go of the horn, you will lose your balance, because your other hand is way back behind, holding the cantle.  You can’t continue to mount and get up into the saddle, because your right hand is blocking you…it’s holding the cantle.  You can’t let go of the cantle, because you’ll lose your balance, because your other hand is way up front holding the horn…and the reins.  So, you hang onto the saddle, hanging off the side of the horse, with your left foot dangerously stuck in the stirrup, with absolutely no way to control the animal, until either the saddle finally slides off to the side, dumping you on the ground (hopefully your foot slips out of the stirrup), or the horse rubs you off on a gatepost or barn door. Don’t ask me how I know all this.

Now, let’s look at the same scenario while using the proper technique I just outlined above.  You confidently grasp the reins, snugging them up until you feel the contact with the bit. You use that same hand to grab a big handful of mane. Now you use your right hand to help your left foot into the stirrup.  You reach up and grab the horn with your right hand, and with a nice, controlled lift, you begin to stand up into the stirrup – when suddenly!…well, you remember.

Keeping control while mounting
Keeping control while mounting

So, the horse leaps into action with you only half-way up into position.  Not to worry! You’re holding on firmly to the horn with your strong right hand. You quickly release the mane with your left hand and give a strong pull on the reins, quickly bringing the terrified animal back into subjection, while at the same time, calmly swinging your right leg over the cantle, bringing you into the saddle under full control. No sweat at all! Now to go see about that brat little brother of yours!

Now do you see?  There really is a proper and safe way to mount a horse in a western saddle.  It was developed by the old cow hands for a reason. That reason remains today and better horsemen continue to use it.

If you want to see how it’s done with a little better entertainment value, watch Kevin Kline mount a horse in Silverado, or John Wayne in all his movies, or Tom Selleck in Quigley Down Under or Monty Walsh. Picture perfect mounting technique. These named fellows are actually excellent horsemen, besides being movie stars.

Now, I’m not trying to say that you can’t safely mount a particular horse in other ways. There are people with handicaps, people who may be vertically challenged (as they say), and even folks in their “golden years” who may find it difficult to mount in the way I have described. You make adjustments as necessary and “you do whatcha gotta do”. Most of our horses nowadays are solid broke and mounting up is pretty much anticlimactic, so it’s not as important as it was in days past. However, if you are able, the technique I have described actually is the correct way and the safest way to mount a horse in a western saddle. It could save your hide in that once-in-a-million circumstance in which a horse bolts on you while mounting.

Hope that helps. Here’s the video link I promised. It could be better and I’ll eventually re-do it, but it’s sufficient for this post.

How to Properly and Safely Mount a Horse in a Western Saddle

You can subscribe to my Youtube video channel, where I’ll be posting more videos over time. I intend to create a series of instructional videos for beginners on horse care, handling, and horsemanship, directed mostly to those who are just starting out with horses and those contemplating getting a horse for the first time.

Happy trails!