Tag Archives: bits

Training, Western Trails

Some notes from my training experience with horses

Occasionally, people ask me to do a little training on their horses. My specialty is trail training; I turn good horses into excellent trail horses. My training is a little out of the mainstream, because most of what I do is to give the horse some very solid experience on some pretty tough trails. My thought is that when a rider asks one of my horses to handle an obstacle or tough trail, the horse should be thinking, “I’ve handled worse. This is a piece of cake!” Most riders will never ask of their horses the things I ask of mine on the trail. I expect my horses to handle any obstacle asked of them carefully and without undue hesitation. I expect them to carry their rider to their destination and back, safely, whatever that may entail.

As I have worked with horses over the years, I have learned a few things about horse training and some of the mistakes horse trainers, particularly novices, make (believe, me. I’ve made them all). I thought I’d just outline a few of these things, in hopes they may make sense enough to help the average horse owner as they learn and train their own horses.

I’ll start with a serious training mistake I see made most often by novice trainers, who, with good intentions, teach bad habits to their horses.

I’ll explain.  When a cue is given – say the touch of a heel or spur to ask the horse to move its front quarters – the horse feels the pressure of the cue. While the horse is learning what we want from the cue, he may move against the cue or get confused and reactive. He may not initially understand that we want him to move his front quarters away from the pressure of the cue. The normal reaction of the inexperienced trainer, then, would be to immediately stop giving the cue and try again. In his/her mind, the trainer is thinking, “This isn’t going the way I want it to. I will stop and try again, because I want the horse to stop doing it wrong and learn to do it right.” Sometimes the reaction of the horse to a cue is such that the rider’s thought is more like, “I had better stop this now, because this is not going to end well for me!” This is precisely the reason that most riders who claim to have been “bucked-off” of a horse, actually are guilty of jumping off after the third hop.

Now let’s examine why this training error generally results in the opposite of the desired reaction from the horse. When we give a cue to the horse, while we are thinking as described above, which is natural for a human, the horse is actually thinking along these lines: “How do I get this idiot to stop doing that!” A touch with the spur in the ribs may result in the horse moving away from the cue, which is what we want to happen. If the rider, then, instantaneously stops the cue or removes the pressure on the ribs, the horse learns that if he moves away from the pressure, it goes away! The horse’s thought? “Hey, when I moved this way, my rider stopped poking me in the rib! I’ll remember that!”

The keys to training a horse to cues are to teach the horse in stages and to be consistent in the cue.  During training, when a cue is given, the horse will normally begin to move in an effort to escape the pressure, but may not move as desired at first. The cue should be given and held.  If the horse does not react, increase the pressure until the horse does something.  As soon as the horse makes any move or effort, to any degree, approximating what we want it to do (in this case, to move its front quarters away from the cue) the pressure is released and the horse is praised.  With repetition, the horse will begin to recognize what action on its part causes the cue to go away. With each training session, more should be required of the horse before the cue is released. In time and with patience, the horse will learn to perform the move with the amount of precision that is consistent with the rider’s requirements. In other words, if you are teaching the horse to move its front quarters, it will first learn to move one step, then two. Eventually, the horse will learn to move its front quarters as long as the cue is given, even a complete circle around its hind quarters.

In the same way, if a horse reacts with excitement, or balks, or tosses its head and the rider stops giving the cue, the horse learns instantly that he can make the cue go away with that reaction. The rider has trained his/her horse to do exactly that, although unintentionally.

Now, there are times when a horse under training becomes frustrated or belligerent and refuses to respond to a cue. Sometimes the reaction is to balk, rear, or back, possibly even buck. The normal, although wrong, reaction of the rider/trainer is to release the cue and try to settle the horse. The correct response, one that will not teach the horse to continue that reaction, is to immediately switch to a different cue, one the horse understands, but which may be issued with a punitive value.

For instance, I recently gave a cue to a horse to move its front quarters, by giving a touch with the spur in front of the cinch area behind the horse’s elbow. The horse did not respond, so I increased the pressure. The horse then tensed up its muscles and pushed against the bit as if it was about to do something neither of us was going to enjoy. I immediately switched to a stern cue to tell the horse to move its hind quarters, by giving it a quick jab with the spur in its ribs behind the cinch on the opposite side, while turning its head with the reins. This is often called, “disengaging the hind quarters” by some trainers. This taught the horse that when it does not respond to the first cue given, tensing up and preparing to rear or some other explosive reaction is not acceptable (does not give him a release) and that he will get a stern cue in another direction as a result. That second cue is held until the horse is responding in a submissive way. The horse will begin to recognize that if it wants to make the first cue go away, and not get a more forceful cue in exchange, it is much easier and more agreeable to be compliant.

This leads to one of the little one-liner rules of thumb I once heard from the Parellis: Horses learn from the release of pressure, not from the pressure itself.

I have often read responses to questions on various forums in which I participate online, that decry what is commonly called “pain-compliance” training methods. I had one person respond to one of my posts: “You should NEVER hit a horse!”  Another posted, “A well-trained horse does not need spurs!”  In riding with people who hold similar views with regard to training horses, I have found these are often the same people who have the most trouble with problematic horses. I have seen horses that are pushy with their owners, that nip or bite, that kick, horses that are unruly under saddle when their rider attempts to ride away from a group, among many other things. While I respect differing views on how to train horses, and believe no training method can claim to be the only way things should be done, my experience tells me that the most important aspects of training are, first, firmness (firm, but gentle), and second, consistency. Any horse will learn to respond to any cue, if it is given firmly, gently, and consistently. Having said that, a trainer who subscribes to this as a primary tenet of his/her training methodology, will occasionally find the need to discipline a horse in training with more forceful cues or even punishment. These punitive measures will have the desired effect, coming from one who is consistently firm, but gentle. This leads me to another rule of thumb I subscribe to.

This one I learned from Clinton Anderson, from whose methodology I have learned much. It goes like this: “Ask, Tell, Insist, Enforce.” I think that is self-explanatory.  A horse will learn to respond to the heaviest cue it is trained to. It will also learn to respond to nearly imperceptible cues, if trained to them. Therefore, as a horse learns to respond appropriately to a particular cue, the trainer should ask with a progressively lighter cue, but require compliance all the same, using the above rule. Again, with patience and consistency, the horse will learn to respond as precisely as the rider/trainer requires.

Personally, I like a trail horse to respond to a solid, perceptible cue, rather than a light touch. Let me give an example. On the trail, I am often handling things such as a camera, food, canteen, gloves, etc with my hands. Because of this, I like split reins with a knot to join them (I never cared for roping reins, though). I was once riding along on a mountain trail, handling something with my hands and my horse kept trying to turn off the trail to the right, while I tried to keep him on the trail by steering with leg pressure. When it got to the point that I had to pay attention, it took me a few seconds to see what the problem was: Since I was using both hands, I had let the reins rest on the horse’s neck. The weight of the knot had pulled the reins off to the right side, which effectively gave my faithful steed the neck-reining cue to turn right! My mistake! The lesson here is that a horse may be trained to be as sensitive to the cues as its intended purpose requires.  In the arena, before show judges, one wants the horse to respond to cues that are as light and imperceptible as possible. That level of precision, however, can prove troublesome on the trail.

I have heard trainers state emphatically, that a horse should never enter one’s personal space unless invited. Personally, I don’t subscribe to this. These trainers espouse what I call a “closed-door” policy. The horse is allowed in only when the door is opened by the trainer/rider.  Their reasoning stems from concern for safety. Keeping the horse at a safe distance precludes the trainer being pawed, bitten, or pounced upon unexpectedly by the horse. My personal practice is to have an “open-door” policy in which my horse is free to enter my space unless I close the door.

I enjoy a close physical relationship with my horses, but I do not tolerate misbehavior.  My horses learn, because I am consistent in my treatment of them, what they are allowed to do and what they are not when in my proximity. They also learn how to tell when they have overstepped their bounds. They understand when they have been “spanked.”

Which leads me to another of my personal guides for training. I believe in firm discipline of a horse when it misbehaves, but there are proper methods and improper methods. I will state emphatically, that a horse should never be disciplined by use of the bit! Hands on the bit should be steady and firm. This doesn’t mean constant contact on the bit, but when a cue is given, it should be discernible to the horse. The term “soft hands” is often misunderstood to mean “no contact” on the bit.  However, when there is contact on the bit, it should be done such that if there is firm contact, it is the horse that does it. The hands on the reins should give the cue and hold the cue. If the horse pushes against the cue, the trainer should not respond by pulling back harder, but hold the cue firm. The horse should learn that it is causing the pressure, rather than the trainer’s hands. In fact, the methods described above may be used effectively to teach a horse to be supple and submissive to the bit by putting light pressure on the bit and then releasing immediately when the horse lowers its head and tucks its chin to relieve the pressure. With patience and consistency, the horse will learn to be flexible at the poll and supple to the bit.

I discipline my horses generally by a quick jab with the spurs or my heels. I don’t always ride with spurs, but I normally wear them while training and when I ride backcountry trails. My spurs have a large blunt rowel.  With regard to spurs, the smaller the rowel, the more aggressive the spur. I have seen some spurs with a small blunt ball end that some believe to be a gentle spur, when actually it is a very aggressive design. A large blunt rowel is what I prefer. Mine is shaped sort of like a four-leaf clover.

Kennetrek Cowboy pac boots

I regard spurs as a training tool.  One benefit of the spur, particularly in training, is that a finer, more precise cue may be given with the spur than with the heel of the riding boot. While spurs may be used aggressively when necessary, a light touch with a spur may give a much more precise cue than a broad heel. However, when necessary, the spur may be used aggressively, both punitively or to avert disaster on the trail. I find horses learn quicker and respond more precisely when spurs are involved.

The proper bit is also an effective training device. While it is quite the fashion nowadays to go “bitless,” there is nothing inherently cruel or evil about a bit. An understanding of how bits function is an important element for any horse trainer. I wrote a blog post about the subject a couple years ago that may have useful information for the reader.

As I said earlier, there is no perfect methodology for training a horse. Just as people, some horses respond to one training method better than another. I have learned effective elements of horse training from many horse trainers who espouse widely varied methodologies. My experience in training horses has also improved my understanding of the human psyche. Quite frankly, had I become a horse trainer earlier in life, I might have done some things differently in the raising of my own children!

The final commentary on horse training for this post, and I would not have you believe this post is all-inclusive, is this: Every rider is a trainer and both training and learning are taking place whenever a human comes in contact with a horse. A rider who gently, firmly, and consistently handles a horse, providing consistent cues, will train that horse to respond well and willingly to any desired behavior. A similar thing may also be said of those who handle a horse inconsistently, who are impatient, or who manage discipline with anger. One who handles a horse in this way may find the horse responds inconsistently and makes both itself and its owner unhappy. No amount of excellent training will overcome poor handling by the horse’s owner/rider, but a well-trained horse that is handled properly is a happy horse and a pleasure to be around.

For an excellent relationship between yourself and your horse, learn to be a trainer and not just a rider.

TH

 

Horse Health, Tack and Gear, Western Horsemanship

Let’s talk about bits…

I recently saw a photograph on facebook that showed a horse with a damaged tongue. The associated post indicated the photo was taken by a vet, who said the tongue damage was from abuse from a snaffle bit. The vet said he/she sees this kind of tongue damage regularly.

Tongue damaged by a snaffle? I doubt it.

Quite frankly, I believe neither that the horse’s tongue was damaged by a bit nor that the person who wrote the post was a vet (I hate to be the one to tell you, but not everything you see on facebook is true). The ensuing discussion on the post inspired me to put down a few words about western bridle bits. I will restrict my comments to the world of western riding, as I have very little knowledge (regrettably) about English riding.

There are, in general, two major categories of bridle bits for western riding: The jointed or hinged mouthpiece bit and the solid mouthpiece bit (the mouthpiece being the part that goes inside the horse’s mouth). There are numerous variations within these two categories and several minor offshoots as well.

Then there are bits with shanks and bits without. The shanks, when coupled with a chinstrap (also called a curb strap or curb chain), provide leverage on the mouthpiece, which is how the shanked bit operates. These are often called “leverage” bits and are correctly referred to as curb bits.

Some curb bits are made with swivel joints where the shank attaches to the mouthpiece. Frankly, I’m not sure there is any real value to this, but it is the current fashion over fixed shanks welded to the mouthpiece.

A bit without shanks is called a snaffle bit. Most snaffle bits are jointed or hinged in the middle of the mouthpiece. A hinged bit with shanks about two inches long is called a Tom Thumb bit.  These are often referred to as snaffles, but that is a misnomer, as it has shanks and operates by leverage. It is a curb bit. Snaffles do not operate by leverage.

Tom Thumb bit is a jointed curb bit

Because a snaffle does not operate by leverage and because most are hinged in the middle, they are generally regarded, although incorrectly, as gentle bits.

O-ring egg-butt snaffle bit

Snaffle bits are often used by horse trainers on fresh horses in the  breaking process. Many trainers, myself included, will use a snaffle bit only long enough for the horse to learn the primary basic commands (such as stop, go, left, right, back) and will then transition the horse to a braided rawhide bosal.

Braided rawhide bosal with horsehair mecate

Most of the horse’s training will be done in the bosal, which operates by pressure and bumping on the horse’s nose and under the bars of the lower jaw, until the horse understands well its commands and becomes compliant and obedient. In this way a horse can be trained without the risk of injuring or desensitizing the tender mouth. The horse will then be transitioned to a solid mouthpiece curb bit, that is properly designed and suitable for the use of the horse, after it is well trained. The stiff braided rawhide bosal is not a gentle training tool and a horse can develop calcium deposits on its nose and on the bottom of the jaw if the bosal is overused or improperly used. There are softer bosals that are of little use for reining training, but are often used as “bitless” bridles.

That said, I have discontinued using a bosal on my Missouri Fox Trotters once I start training them in their gaits. The bosal causes sores on their nose, due to the MFT’s head motion in its Fox Trot. I tend to transition them to the solid mouthpiece curb bit earlier than I used to do with Quarter Horses. My Fox Trotters are so easy to train and so willing, that I have experienced no ill effects from doing so.

Now that we’ve discussed some basics about bits, let’s take a closer look at how they operate.

First, we’ll talk about the snaffle.

There are a wide variety of snaffle bit designs, each with it’s purpose. Snaffles attach to the reins and bridle by a ring on each end of the mouthpiece. This ring may be round ( O-ring) or a D-ring.  The snaffle is not intended to be used with a chinstrap, but I have seen it done. Since the snaffle has no shanks, use of a chinstrap adds no leverage and the only function of the chinstrap is to keep the bit from pulling the ring into the horse’s the mouth if the horse is not responsive to a side pull or if the bit is improperly used. Some people use large rubber washers on the sides of the snaffle bit for this same purpose, as well as to keep the bit from pinching the sides of the horse’s mouth.

D-ring snaffle with copper rollers

There are egg-butt snaffles, that are round and larger diameter where they contact the bars of the jaws and narrower at the hinge in the center.  There are narrow egg-butt snaffles, as well as twisted wire snaffles that are quite aggressive and generally used for correction training and refresher training on non-compliant horses. There are “French-Link” snaffles that have two or more joints or hinges in them. Ironically, the gentlest of the snaffle bits are chain snaffles that are simply pieces of flat-link chain joined by the rings at the ends. There are snaffles that have solid mouthpieces as well.

Again, a snaffle has no shanks. If it has shanks it is not a snaffle.

Twisted wire ring snaffle – very aggressive – for correction training

I want to reiterate here that among most horse people, a snaffle bit is generally considered to be a gentle bit. One of the primary purposes of this article is to educate the reader about the true nature of how a snaffle functions and why it is a good and appropriate training bit for fresh horses in the breaking process, but, in fact is not a gentle bit and should not be used on a horse that is not completely compliant, except in its initial training.

A snaffle bit operates by three mechanical pressures that cause pain in the horse’s mouth. First, as the reins are pulled or as the horse resists the bit, the bit hinges in the middle, causing pressure on the bars of the lower jaws, just ahead of the molars. At the same time, the point of the hinge pokes into the roof of the horse’s mouth, again causing pain. Thirdly, the hinged snaffle has what is often called a “nut-cracker” effect on the horse’s tongue, causing pressure and discomfort.

Nut-cracker effect: pinches tongue, pressure on lower jaw bars, pokes into roof of the mouth

While the purpose of this post is to educate my readers to the fact that the hinged snaffle bit is not a gentle bit, I have never seen a horse’s tongue damaged by a snaffle, as indicated in the mentioned facebook article and I believe that photo is taken out of context and that the post is a fraud. I have, however, seen a horse’s tongue damaged in the way that photo depicts from being badly cut (not by a snaffle or any other bit) and surgically repaired, which is what I suspect happened to the horse in the photo.  It is virtually impossible for a snaffle bit to cause the damage indicated in the photo.

Having said that, I reiterate that a snaffle is not a gentle bit. Due to the pain and discomfort caused by a hinged snaffle bit, horses that continue in a snaffle past their initial training, particularly in the hands of an inexperienced rider, often learn to raise and shake the head and open wide the mouth to escape pressure from the bit. Raising the head positions the snaffle bit so that it pulls only against the soft edges of the lips at the sides of the mouth. Opening the mouth and raising the head relieves the pressure on the jaws and the roof of the mouth and most of the pressure on the tongue, thereby rendering the snaffle bit almost entirely ineffective. The rider then responds to this misbehavior by pulling harder on the reins in order to retain control, which exacerbates the situation.

I am convinced that this misbehavior, or “fighting the bit,” is much of the driving impetus behind the “bitless” movement. Many people who change to bitless bridles and promote them as being safer and gentler than any bit, are those who, prior to switching to bitless, used snaffle bits on their horses for general use, believing the snaffle to be the gentlest of bits.  The misbehavior of the horse, then, leads them to believe that the horse will misbehave with any bit. The refrain I often hear in promotion of bitless bridles, “How would you like a piece of steel in your mouth?” is utterly without merit and ridiculous.  Most horses, once relieved of the discomfort of a snaffle bit, will change their behavior markedly after a short while, regardless of whether the transition is to a bitless bridle or to a properly designed and adjusted solid curb bit.

There is a very good reason why snaffle bits are commonly used in the initial breaking and training phase of a horse’s training. They are aggressive and painful bits. The hinged snaffle bit, in trained hands, quickly teaches an untrained horse the basic control commands, so that a horse may be broken to the saddle and trained safely.  It is pain compliance – No doubt about it. Once those basic commands are taught and learned, the horse should be transitioned to something else.

If a horse is compliant and the rider has gentle hands, a hinged snaffle may not cause a horse any more discomfort than any other kind of bit or bridle. However, most riders are not always gentle with their hands and most horses are not always compliant.

Now to talk about solid mouthpiece curb bits a little bit (no pun intended).

Solid mouthpiece curb bits have shanks that are intended to operate in conjunction with a chinstrap or curb strap, which gives the bit leverage, causing pressure on the bars of the lower jaw.  This also rotates the mouthpiece, causing pressure, via the design of the mouthpiece, either on the tongue or on the roof of the mouth (or both), although not with the pointed poking or pinching of the hinged snaffle. The shanks provide advance warning to the horse that pressure is about to be applied, allowing the horse to respond to a light cue, before firm pressure is applied.

The headstall attaches to the upper ring of the shank.  Some bits have a middle loop on the shanks, located at the same point in the shanks where mouthpiece attaches.  This loop is there for the purpose of attaching a second set of reins to the loop (which I have never seen done in western riding) or to use the bit as a snaffle (no chinstrap and no leverage), should the rider choose to do that. However, to use the bit as a curb bit, the chinstrap attaches to the same loop, at the top of the shanks, as the headstall (see the photos below). I have seen chinstraps improperly attached to the snaffle loop, which causes the bit to function improperly. The reins attach to the lower ring at the bottom of the shanks.

The tighter a chinstrap is adjusted, the quicker the horse feels input from the reins. The adjustment of the chinstrap also adjusts the position of the mouthpiece in the horse’s mouth as the chinstrap engages. I tend to keep my chinstraps fairly loose, as most of my riding is trail riding and I do not want my horse to feel input from movement of the reins except when I intend to give input.  The length of the shanks also affects how quickly the horse senses input from the reins, as well as the amount of force that can be applied to the mouthpiece. If you have a show horse and need the horse to feel input from even the most subtle cues from the reins, you might try a snugger chinstrap and/or longer shanks (many show classes limit the length of the shanks).  A properly adjusted headstall and chinstrap make a lot of difference in how the horse responds to a particular bit.

Most solid mouthpiece curb bits also have a port (the bend in the middle of many bit mouthpieces), which applies pressure on the roof of the mouth or on the tongue, depending on the design of the bit. Some solid mouthpiece curb bits look like Spanish Inquisition torture devices, but are, in fact, quite gentle in the hands of a trained rider on a trained reining horse.

Spoon bit for a reiner

These are often called “spoon bits” and have larger, elaborate ports, which allow the well-trained horse to sense very subtle cues via the port. Cues from the rider that may be imperceptible to a judge on the ground may be felt easily by the horse. These bits are not intended for horses not trained to them. Due to the look of them, many people unfamiliar with their use believe they are  cruel “correction” bits. They are not.

Medium port grazing bit

The port and shanks of a solid mouthpiece curb bit are designed with the use of the horse in mind. For example, the snaffle bit is generally intended for training or correction.  The bit commonly called a “grazing bit” was designed with a solid mouthpiece, a low or medium port, and fairly short shanks that are bent back toward the rider. These were designed with the rancher in mind, so that his horse might comfortably graze with the bit in its mouth, without the shanks getting in the way or causing discomfort.

Bits designed for gaited horses tend to have longer shanks and broad ports that are designed to go over the tongue with little or no pressure when the horse holds its head properly in its gait. The shanks are generally longer than those of a grazing bit and angled differently, providing more subtle cues to the horse’s mouth while in gait. A Western Pleasure bit (often a simple grazing bit) is designed to relieve pressure from the port on the tongue and roof of the mouth when the horse holds its head low and vertical, placing the port in a neutral position with a loose rein. A spoon bit on a reiner puts little or no pressure on the horse’s mouth while the horse is doing its work, but allows the subtlest of cues to be transmitted to and felt by the horse. Those are such technical bits that even the weight of the reins is important.

Robart Pinchless Gaited bit

I have found I like a bit made by Robart and marketed by Amazon for my Fox Trotter and my Tennessee Walker. It has a wide, rounded mouthpiece that has a steel swivel (not a hinge) in the middle, allowing single-rein control as well as normal neck-reining. It also has copper wire inlaid into the mouthpiece, which helps keep the horse’s mouth moist. Note also, the center loop, for use with a second set of reins or to set the bit up for use as a snaffle.

Imus bit, similar in design to the Robart bit

 A similar bit, marketed by several sellers, such as Imus, uses a copper swivel, however some people have told me the copper swivel wears out over time and breaks.

I have found this design, properly adjusted, to be quite comfortable to my gaited horses. Again, bits for gaited horses generally have longer shanks and differently configured mouthpieces than those made for Quarter Horses. Gaited horses generally hold their heads higher and at a slightly different angle than Quarter Horses while in gait, thereby making a regular ported curb bit somewhat uncomfortable to them. A Quarter Horse is trained to carry its head low and vertical, which places the ported mouthpiece in a neutral position, bearing no pressure on the roof of the mouth or tongue. The medium or high ported bit reinforces this head-hold training, while a bit for a gaited horse might prove uncomfortable or ineffective for the Quarter Horse.

It is true, that any of the above bits may be used cruelly by the rider and that non-compliance of the horse may cause discomfort or even pain to the horse. However, that is less likely to be the case with a properly adjusted solid curb bit than with a snaffle bit. Additionally, the length of the shanks on a curb bit provide a little advance warning to the horse that pressure is about to be applied, whereas the snaffle provides only direct pressure on the bit. This is why horses may learn to respond more precisely to a curb bit than to a snaffle.

In case you are wondering, I am not a proponent of bitless bridles. I have nothing against them and I have seen some horses function better in a bitless side-pull bridle than with a bit. However, I believe that to be the result of faulty training or handling earlier in the horse’s life or possibly a health or injury issue respecting the mouth.  My horses handle well with a solid curb bit and I have experienced nothing that makes me think a bitless bridle would better suit my needs or theirs. I make no recommendation one way or the other. I prefer a bit.

So, the moral of this story is this: If you regularly ride your horse in a hinged snaffle bit and find your horse developing the habit of opening its mouth, raising and shaking its head, or general disobedience relative to the bit, try moving to a properly designed and adjusted solid curb bit and see if that behavior doesn’t change.

You’ll be surprised at the results.

Did I mention that a hinged snaffle is not a gentle bit?

TH

P.S.

Since I first posted this article, I have learned that the damage to the horse’s tongue, depicted in the featured image above, was probably caused by a rubber band tongue tie, which is used in some disciplines, such as racing, to keep the horse from getting it’s tongue over the bit. Occasionally, such a tongue tie is improperly installed for one reason or another, and forgotten, causing damage as seen in the photo. I will restate here that such tongue damage is impossible with a snaffle bit.