Another old, beat up, unusable saddle brought back to life

A couple weeks ago, I saw an old saddle in my buddy’s tack room. It was obviously an older saddle, probably from around the 1940s or so, with small sweat leathers and the stirrup leathers exposed on the outside of the sweat leathers. It was a small saddle, measuring 14-1/2″ on the seat, and built like a youth saddle. The leather was dry and cracked and in need of a good cleaning and oiling. As I looked closer, I saw that on the left side (on-side), the front of the tree bar, to which the left side of the cinch rigging had been attached, was broken. The bar had split and departed. The rigging attachment was missing altogether and the rigging ring was held in place by a couple leather boot laces tied around the pommel and through the hand-hole – obviously a “just-get-me-back-home” kind of repair.

My buddy has several grandkids he likes to get out on horses every chance he gets, so I asked if he would like to have that saddle repaired. Looking rather doubtful, he said, “Sure, if it’s worth saving!” I told him I’d give it a shot.

The following week, I tore the saddle apart to see what I could do. I was immediately sorry I had forgotten to take a “before” photograph. Oh well, you can see from the photos of the repair process what needed to be done.

The first thing was to remove enough of the leather to assess whether the tree was, in fact, repairable. I was disappointed in what I found. The tree was not rawhide covered, but was made as cheaper saddles were made “back in the day.” The wood tree was covered with a cloth mesh, not unlike what we call “cheese cloth” and that was painted with a thick glue-like varnish to seal the tree. The cloth mesh adds little or no strength to the tree, but helps in the adhesion of the glues used to attach the leather to the tree. I found the tree itself to be loose at all the joints. In other words, it was not in very good shape.

I decided that I could repair the broken tree bar by gluing and screwing a piece of pine in place of the missing piece, then milling it to match the other side – not a difficult thing, since the tree was not covered with rawhide. I have both the tools and the skills as a woodworker to do that repair easily. In a couple hours I had the repair done and was pleased with it. I further strengthened the tree by drilling pilot holes and driving in 2″ screws through the bars and into the cantle and pommel. It is now quite firm and all the joints are tight.

I reinforced the repaired bar with a single layer of fiberglass bi-directional cloth over the length of the bar. It didn’t go on very well, as you can see, but it will be strong enough for its purpose. I also painted a layer of resin over the rest of the tree to seal and strengthen it. The resin doesn’t have much strength in itself, but it tends to soak into the surface layers of the wood and adds some strength there and it would also add a little reinforcement to the cloth mesh and varnish already on the tree. Regardless, it would be stronger than it was when it was made.

The next step was to sand the whole tree smooth, since the fiberglass resin made every little string and sliver hard and prickly. Once smoothed, it was time to start replacing all the saddle leather.

I started with the gullet leather. It went on easily.

The ground seat was next. Most saddlers use a tin “strainer” as the foundation for a ground seat, while some higher-end saddlers make a ground seat entirely of leather. This saddle originally had a tin strainer, so I reused it. All the old nails had loosened, so I reattached it with zinc-coated roofing nails, which should hold it much better than before over the long-haul.

After the strainer was in place, the ground seat was completed with the same leather as before. I wanted to re-use all the leather that came on the saddle, as far as possible, so that I wouldn’t have trouble with the outer leather not fitting back on the saddle properly.

Next was the saddle horn. The old one was worn out and loose. The leather was stretched and the stitching was coming loose. The original horn was quite small, but it looked right in proportion to the saddle, so I made a new horn and wrap pretty much as it was made originally…at least size-wise. I used better leather than was used originally. I think it came out pretty well.

Next came the rigging. I decided to go with a Stohlman-style 3/4 rigging, which would be immeasurably stronger and more durable than what came on the saddle and would be less likely to put undue stress on the tree bars and break the repaired area again. I made paper patterns, based on patterns provided in The Stohlman Encyclopedia of Saddle Making, Volume One. The original rigging was pretty close to a “full-rigging”, but I moved it back, so that it would allow the cinch to ride a little farther back for my friend’s Fox Trotter horses. I attached the rigging with three 1″ screws, front and rear each side. This rigging will still be strong when all the rest of the leather on the saddle has rotted away and is useless.

Once the rigging was in place, it was time to start replacing the outer leather. I started with the pommel cover, which is standard operating procedure. Next came the seat leather. Since this is an old-style saddle, it has a total of 16 leather conchos (sometimes also referred to as conchas) and 8 saddle strings. This is sometimes called an “8-string” saddle. More modern saddle designs are 6-string, because they combine the front jockeys with the seat leather as one piece. Personally, I like the 8-string design. It imparts a traditional look, I think.

I cut and prepared the 16 conchos, 8 at 1-3/4″ and 8 at 1-1/2″. I applied neatsfoot oil and Fiebings Chocolate colored stain to them to make them look a little closer to the color of the original leather.

Here is where I changed things a little. I hope the changes are stronger and yet invisible to the casual observer. When I repair a saddle, I try to make improvements where possible without detracting from the original design and patina of the old saddle. If I know a repair is there, but I can’t see it, I feel like I have done well.

The original saddle skirts were attached to the tree bars with a few nails here and there, but mostly with saddle strings that passed through the tree bars in various places, then through the saddle leather, and were finished with a bleed-knot. You only see them as saddle strings on the outside. This is the traditional method for attaching saddle skirts to the tree bars. It has worked well for a couple hundred years.

More modern saddles, particularly show saddles no longer have any need for saddle strings and some prefer not to have them at all. On these saddles, the skirts are attached with screws and nails only, with a few leather tags to hold the ends of the skirts tight to the bars. Saddle strings passing through the tree bars are entirely eliminated. This obviates the need to drill holes through the saddle leather and through the tree bars. Some feel these holes weaken the tree bars, but I have seen little evidence of that when care is taken to make sure all the holes are drilled properly in the right places.

For this saddle, however, I decided the best method was to use screws. Not all the holes in the original tree bars were drilled in the right places and putting everything back as original would have been a mistake in my estimation. The saddle skirts originally had leather patches sewn to them on both ends, which was pulled up over the front and rear of the bar and attached with nails. This was to keep the ends of the skirts tight to the bars. Only one of the leather patches remained. It was on the rear of the left skirt. I made a similar patch from scrap leather and used my industrial sewing machine to stitch it to the rear of the right skirt.

With the new rigging in place, this method would no longer work on the front of the saddle skirts, so in the front of each skirt I punched 1/4″ holes and installed two leather thongs on each side. These I pulled tight over the front of the bars and fixed them with nails through the rigging leather and into the wood of the bars. I then put nails and screws in all the appropriate places to ensure the skirts never move and provide another few years of good service before they need to be re-fleeced.

This being a trail saddle, however, means it should have saddle strings. So, on the upper side of the saddle, I strung the saddle strings through existing holes in the saddle leather, then slid the large concho into place. I then used an awl to make a pilot hole in the concho, through the saddle leather, and through the center of the saddle string. I then set a #10 X 1-1/4″ wood screw through all that and into the saddle tree wood. This method firmly fixes the saddle leather to the tree and creates a very strong substrate to give strength for the saddle string. The small concho is then set in place over the large concho, covering the screw head. The saddle strings are then finished with the traditional bleed knot.

Some saddlers attach the conchos and saddle leather to the tree in this method, but use a small D-ring to attach the saddle strings. I prefer the traditional look of the bleed knots and no D-ring.

As I reassembled the saddle, I oiled each piece of leather with a heavy coat of 100% neatsfoot oil, which it absorbed thirstily, and then went over each piece with Fiebings leather stain in Chocolate color, to blend the new and the old as much as possible. You can see the difference in the following photos:

Speaking of D-rings, I forgot to mention that I added D-rings to the front rigging for a breast strap attachment point. I also added a D-ring to the left rear, under the concho at the cantle, for the attachment of a rifle scabbard strap or anything else one might wish to attach there. On that D-ring, I made an attachment from tin and slid it up under the rear jockey leather, to make it as unobtrusive as possible. The screw that holds the saddle leather and concho in place passes through it as well, so it will be a very strong attachment point for a rifle scabbard. After installing it, I decided to go back and attach a similar D-ring on the other side as well, so one has a choice of which side to carry the rifle scabbard. I’ll get to that tomorrow.