As we left it last week, Dad and I had made camp on a small knoll about two miles west of Texas Canyon Road, Chiricahua National Monument, Arizona, on the fourth night of the first leg of our Mexico-to-Canada horse pack trip.
The fifth day began as all the others did, with us waking up about 5:15am. We rolled out of bed, took care of our morning oblations, fed the horses, and Dad started cooking while I started breaking camp. As usual, I set my solar panels up to catch as much sun as possible while we packed up for departure, in order to have battery for the cameras and GPS.
We had all the horses loaded up and ready to move by 9:00. As Dad was mounting Jimbo, he lost his balance and fell pretty hard. He shook it off and I held Jimbo while he got in the saddle. Dad got lined out with his pack animals and I went to bridle and mount Ranger. I got up into the saddle and was trying to get Lizzy and “that stupid mare” lined out when I just happened to notice something on the ground underfoot of my horses. On closer inspection, it turned out to be a smart-phone. I jumped off and picked it up, amazed that the horses hadn’t stepped on it. Of course, it was Dad’s phone, which had slipped out of his pocket when he went down. It was lucky I found it, and luckier that it hadn’t been smashed by a horse’s hoof. It was just another lucky break for us…or maybe it was another one of those little helps from above. We had a number of those kinds of things happen for us.
Scenery along Rucker Canyon Road
We were on the trail by 9:15am. We had a short uphill to climb, but after that we were moving pretty much downhill toward Texas Canyon Road. We hit the road before noon and headed north toward the North Fork of Rucker Canyon, following the dirt road.
Shortly after we hit Texas Canyon Road, we had our first near tragic wreck of the trip.
I had dismounted to open a gate to bypass a cattle guard. Before dismounting, I tied Lizzy’s lead rope to my saddle horn with a clove hitch, so I could lead Ranger through the gate with the pack horses following. This was a metal gate, rather than a barbed wire “gap”, like we normally ran into. I unchained the gate and opened it toward us, rather than away, without thinking. I swung it wide, then led Ranger through. As I led him through the gate, it swung back and caught Lizzy at the shoulder, right in front of her pack saddle, pinching her between the gate and gate post. Ranger, then, feeling the tug behind him, began pulling hard against the pressure. I finally saw what was happening and had started to pull Ranger back, when Lizzy began pulling back as well. Between the two of us pulling, Ranger’s front end came off the ground and he fell sideways to his left, toward the cattle guard. When he fell, his front left foreleg went into the cattle guard to above the knee, with his right front folded under him.
Scrape on Ranger’s front left from the cattle guard
I was still pulling back on Ranger’s lead rope, now from directly behind him, while Lizzy, still pinched in the gate, pulled from his left side. I held tight, fearing that if the lead rope, or saddle horn, or cincha, or anything else, were to break, Ranger would lunge forward and end up with all four legs into the cattle guard.
Suddenly, with both Lizzy and me pulling and Ranger struggling, he again started coming over backward, causing his left front leg to pull straight up and out of the cattle guard. Rather than falling over backward, though, he stood up on his hind legs and walked backward, relieving the pressure on Lizzy.
Then, as suddenly as it all started, it was over.
After calming the horses, I checked Ranger over carefully, and found he had scraped some hide off his front left foreleg, but there were no serious injuries. He could easily have broken his leg. Lizzy was uninjured.
Once again, thank you, Lord.
Lesson learned: Always open gates away from you!
Eating Beanie-Weenies with a wooden spoon
Somewhere along the road, we stopped to give the horses a rest and took our lunch. Our usual lunch was beef jerky and a Cliff Bar, but on this day we had Beanie-weenies. With our eating utensils neatly packed away on a pack horse, we took the opportunity to engage in one of our very own Henrie family traditions: we made wooden spoons and ate our beanie-weenies with them. That tradition dates back to my very first mountain trail ride with Dad, while I was in high school. My brother and I were on a hunt trip with Dad in the Blue Wilderness Area in Arizona. We were riding our horses up out of the Blue on the Red Hills Trail (the trail, not the road). When we stopped for lunch, we had a can of Van Camp’s Pork and Beans, but nothing to eat it with. Dad used his pocket knife to open the can, then carved us a wooden spoon. Thus began the tradition. No Henrie can truly say he’s been wilderness camping until he/she has eaten beans with a hand-carved wooden spoon.
We arrived at our day’s destination about 3:00pm, after 13.6 miles, making exactly 50 miles from our starting point five days earlier. We picked out a campsite with plenty of grass and picketed the horses. There was a small corral in which we allowed Jimbo and Honey to graze. We set up our camp and relaxed awhile before our new riding companions arrived.
Camp at North Fork of Rucker Canyon
Josh Jensen and Al Smith arrived just an hour or so later with their mules. They were both pretty excited to be able to participate with us on this part of the ride.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, several months before, during the planning of our route, I advertised that anybody who wanted to ride with us for a portion of the trip was welcome to join us. Joshua answered the call and we began planning out the route through the Chiricahuas together. Lucky for us he and Al came along. Joshua happens to be a member of the US Border Patrol Mounted Patrol for the Safford District. Al Smith is his good friend, whom we invited to join us as well. Between the two of them, they know the trails in the Chiricahuas. Some of those trails have suffered from several major fires in recent years. Many of the trails are impassable, and some have disappeared entirely. Without the help of Joshua and Al, we never would have found our way through those mountains. Joshua was also able to track any USBP activities in the area and steer us clear of any drug trafficking and illegal alien groups passing through the area.
Additionally, with Joshua’s help, we were able to stage horse feed resupply points, without which we would have been helpless, as there was precious little grass in the Arizona desert areas we passed through between the border and Safford. We had left twelve bags of feed at Joshua’s house in Safford before the trip, which made for three feed resupply stops. We fed the last of the feed we had packed from the US/Mexico border that evening and the following morning. Joshua brought eight bags of feed in his truck. The plan was for us to load four bags to get us through the mountains. We would get the remaining four bags when we got to his truck as we emerged from the mountains, where he and Al were to leave us. We would resupply again at his house in Safford when we arrived there, packing out the last of the feed, which would get us into the higher elevations, where we expected to find sufficient grazing for the horses.
Joshua brought us something else that evening. As a “thank you” for us letting him and Al join us for the ride, he cooked up T-bone steaks, potatoes and cheese, and fetuchini, with brownies for desert. All cooked over an open fire (except the brownies), it was fabulous. Much better than the dehydrated meals we had been living on.
My journal for the day makes a couple comments I thought I would provide in their entirety:
[Begin journal comment]
As of today we have made 50 miles exactly.
Dad rode Jimbo today. Jimbo got a little excited a couple times, but Dad rode him out and after that Jimbo did great. He’s a good horse. Strong, sound, not a mean bone in him, and sure-footed. He’s doing better with his skittishness every day.
Ranger
Ranger and Lizzy did well today. I sure enjoy Ranger. He and I are really bonding. I enjoy riding Lizzy, but Ranger is starting to act like I’m his herd leader. Even when he gets excited and runs off, he always returns and comes to me. I think he and I are going to enjoy a lot of miles together.
Daisy has a saddle sore coming up. We plan to pony her bareback for the next several days. We’ll leave her pack saddle in Joshua’s trailer and he’ll get it back to us on our rest day, Sunday.
[End journal comment]
Daisy’s saddle sore starting
That evening, while tending the horses, I noticed that Daisy was developing a saddle sore high on her withers. We decided to let her go bareback for several days to let it heal up before it got worse. Due to the location of the sore, it was at this point that we began to think we were over-padding our pack saddles, which may have been what caused Daisy’s saddle sore. The following day we stopped using the extra saddle pad under my Phillips Formfitter pack saddles and happily discovered that our problems of the packsaddles moving and slipping on the horses ceased completely. After that day I don’t believe we ever had to stop to adjust another pack saddle for the rest of the trip.
Lesson learned: Don’t over-pad the Phillips Formfitter pack saddles. Our 3/4″ wool felt and canvas pack saddle pads was sufficient protection and using only those kept our packsaddles from moving around on the horse’s back.
Here are a couple short videos from Day Five I made on Texas Canyon Road.
Those of you who have been following my blog awhile know that I did quite a bit of research on various configurations of pack saddles before finally settling on the Decker-style Phillips Formfitter pack saddles, from Outfitters Pack Station, for our Mexico-to-Canada horse pack trip. As Dad already had two crossbuck pack saddles, we ended up using my two Deckers with manties and Dad’s two crossbucks with Utah-style paniers. It’s time for my comparison and evaluation.
Crossbuck pack saddle tree
To provide a little background, crossbuck pack saddles, sometimes called sawbuck pack saddles, have been used in North America for at least a couple hundred years. They consist of two crossed wooden “crutches”, similar to the way a sawbuck is built, which is where the name comes from (a sawbuck is two crossed beams over which a log is laid to be cut with a saw). Paniers, which are large bags or hard-sided boxes, are hung by straps from the crossbucks. Traditionally, soft paniers, often called “Utah Paniers” were used. These paniers are often covered with a tarp, which is tied in place with a diamond hitch, which improves the water-resistance of the pack and holds items tied on top of the packs.
While hard-sided paniers are available and quite utilitarian, we decided to go the traditional route. That’s what Dad and I have always used and we saw no reason to change. However, during our passage through the Chiricahua mountains, one of the riders who joined us for a few days packed hard paniers on his mule and I was much impressed. In camp, these hard paniers could be converted into seats or tables. I expect I’ll eventually get a set of these and give up on my traditional bent. Also, there are bear-resistant hard paniers available from a number of suppliers, for those areas where they may be required.
Sometime around the turn of the 20th century, a new-style of pack saddle was invented, which is now commonly called the Decker-style pack saddle. The Decker pack saddle, characterized by metal bows, or arches, to which loads are strapped, has proven its usefulness over the past century, due to its versatility. One can hang about any kind of load imaginable from a Decker-style pack saddle with a little ingenuity. This style of pack saddle eventually became the standard in the northwestern United States, while the crossbuck has remained king in the southwestern U.S.. Why this is so, I think I discovered during our pack trip and I will discuss that in another post.
Our mustang, Jimbo, with the mantied load on a Phillips Formfitter pack saddle
For the kind of loads we carried on our pack trip, manties are used to contain the cargo, which are then tied to the Decker pack saddle. Manties are heavy canvas tarps, normally measuring about 7 X 8 feet, in which the cargo is wrapped and tied into a pack. One manty pack is tied to each side of the pack saddle to balance the load. Manties of uneven size and/or weight may be balanced by adjusting the way they are tied to the saddle. While top packs may be tied to these pack saddles, it is not commonly done, however the manties may be tied as large or small as required. The pack saddles I finally settled on have arches that are made to handle not only manties, but also Utah Paniers.
Phillips Formfitter
The Phillips Formfitter pack saddle also has other features that attracted me, such as the adjustable-angle saddle bars and the fleece pads attached to the bars. My reasoning for this selection was that the adjustable bars would answer the problem of the different conformations of the several horses on which we intended to use them. Our remuda consisted of two Missouri Fox Trotters, two Quarter Horses, one mustang, and one mule, ranging from 16 hands to 13, all with very different backs among them.
My concerns with regard to this pack saddle were limited to two things: Would the adjustable saddle bars be able to hold the pack loads in place like a solid pack saddle would? And, would the narrow saddle bars, configured similar to a riding saddle’s bars, sufficiently distribute the loads on the horses’ backs, so as to avoid pressure points and saddle sores?
Before the trip, I discussed these and other concerns about the pack saddles with Wade, at Outfitters Pack Station. We also discussed whether double cinchas, such as are commonly used on crossbuck pack saddles, might be better for our trip. I decided to go with the single cincha, since that is the configuration I have seen on most Decker-style pack saddles. I figured that if they proved insufficient, I could order the double cincha rigs at the end of the first leg of our trip. On the Phillips Formfitter, the cincha rigging is changeable by simply unbuckling one and replacing it with the other. Wade also gave me some advice on setting up the rigging to ride properly on the pack animal.
During the first 200 miles or so of our trip, we knew we would be packing feed for the horses, since there is little feed available for grazing along our route in the lower desert areas of Arizona. We decided on Equidine pellets in 50 pound sacks, as it would be easy to pack in manties and to balance as a load. We started our trip with 400 pounds of feed, split among two pack horses, packed in manties on my Phillips Formfitter pack saddles. With the help of friends, we were able to re-supply with feed as needed. The rest of our gear was packed in paniers on Dad’s crossbucks. Our plan was to have two animals under riding saddle, two packed heavy, and two packed light, then rotate every day or so to keep all the horses adequately rested. We also planned for two rest days per week. On the first day, all the animals were packed pretty heavy, but the feed went down at a rate of nearly 120 pounds per day, so the packs lightened up quickly.
I set my pack saddles up according to Wade’s advice, however, both Dad and I felt the 3/4″ wool felt pack saddle pads we had were insufficient for the loads we were packing on the horses. We decided to place a regular saddle pad over top of the pack saddle pad for extra protection for the pack animals’ backs. As it turned out, that was a mistake with the Phillips Formfitter.
The first day we made approximately 10 miles. In that distance we had to re-settle the decker pack saddles several times. I was beginning to believe I had made a serious mistake in not ordering the double cinchas. By the end of the second day, in which we made over 16 miles, we had stopped and re-settled the Decker pack saddles a number of times. It seemed they would start to turn every several miles, regardless of how well balanced and tied the load was, or how tight the cinch was. We had no such problems with the crossbuck pack saddles, which were padded in the same way.
Saddle sore on the QH Daisy
By the end of the second day, our large, heavy-built Quarter Horse mare had developed a saddle sore high on her withers. After looking at the location of the saddle sore and considering how often we had to re-settle her Decker pack saddle, we determined that we had over-padded the pack saddles, causing them to “woggle” on the horses’ backs. After that, we packed the Phillips Formfitter saddles without the additional saddle pads and had no further problems with the saddles turning or with saddle sores on any of the other horses. After that point, the Formfitter pack saddles stayed in place with the single cincha and performed very satisfactorily. Lesson learned: Do not over-pad with these pack saddles.
Incidentally, we continued to double-pad the crossbuck pack saddles on the mule and one Quarter Horse and had no trouble with the saddles turning or saddle sores.
I was very pleased with the quality and adjustability of the rigging on the Phillips Formfitter pack saddles. I was able to make the saddles fit properly on my 16-hand, tall-withered, short-backed, tall-spined, deep-chested, bony-hind quartered, Missouri Fox Trotter gelding, as well as the 15-hand, long-torso, flat-backed, broad-chested, wide-rumped, Quarter Horse. As for the mustang, he was fairly in-between the other two and we had no trouble at all with fitting the pack saddles to his conformation.
The one horse that had problems with the Phillips Form Fitter rigging was my 4 year-old Missouri Fox Trotter mare. This mare, Lizzy, has a walk to die for under saddle, but it is that same walk that makes her unsuitable as a pack horse. Her long-strided, swinging walking motion caused her to get rub sores from both the breast strap and the breeching, despite the fact that Wade makes those straps with the edges rolled with a light, soft leather. I found Lizzy also got rub sores from my riding saddle breast strap, so it wasn’t the pack saddle rigging at fault, but simply that my mare has such movement in her strides that she simply gets rub sores. Consequently, Lizzy spent more time than anticipated under my riding saddle with the breast strap stowed in the packs. My other Fox Trotter, Ranger, had no such problems and ended up under the pack saddle more than planned.
On the Fox Trotters, we had to set the spider way up on the croop to avoid rub sores
The one piece of rigging on the Phillips Formfitter saddles that caused problems on both Fox Trotters, was the spider, which is the piece that holds the breeching in place on the croop of the horse. It should ride about half-way between the point of the croop and the horse’s tail. This piece had rubbed deep sores on both my Fox Trotters’ rumps before I noticed it. I had to adjust the spiders so that they rode right on top of the horses’ croop to alleviate the problem. When adjusted as it is supposed to ride, the motion and conformation of the Fox Trotters caused the front edge of the spider to dig into the hair and subsequently the flesh of the horses. I think this problem could be remedied with a slight re-design of the spider. The spider is made with two layers of heavy leather with fairly sharp edges. I think a fleece pad under the spider, a different shape, or possibly rolled edges like the breast strap and breeching have, would fix the problem. I must say, however, that the only horses that experienced this problem were the Fox Trotters. The Quarter Horse and the mustang had no problem with the spider, or any other part of the rigging, as-is. I intend to design a removable fleece pad for my saddles, for use with my Fox Trotters.
The Packer’s Field Manual, by Bob Hoverson
I used the book “Packer’s Field Manual,” by Bob Hoverson, as a guide for setting up and using my Decker pack saddles. I found his book to be quite complete and useful. I learned to tie up manties quickly and well, using the knots and hitches he shows in the book. I set up each pack saddle with two “sling ropes” of about 28 feet length attached to the front saddle arch with a loop. Each rope runs through the rear hoops and is looped around each pack in a way that suspends it solidly from the saddle arches. The packs are weighed and balanced using a pack scale before loading, however, if one pack ends up slightly larger or heavier, balance can be achieved by setting the heavy pack a little higher on the saddle, thus changing its center of balance and making the load to ride balanced.
Decker-style pack saddles differ from traditional crossbucks not only in the way they are made, but also in the way they are equipped. While our crossbucks were pretty bare and light on rigging, the Phillips Formfitters were heavy on rigging. They also, as do all Decker-style saddles, use a protective canvas and wood shield, known as a “halfbreed” or “Arapajo”, apparently named for one of the men who originally designed and used this type of pack saddle. The halfbreed is a canvas layer that fits over top of the Decker pack saddle and has sideboards of 1 X 4 pine that protect the horse’s sides from the packs and spread the load. This is particularly important when packing items such as lumber, fence posts, or gravel. By the time we finished the first leg of the trip (355 miles), both Fox Trotters and one Quarter Horse were starting to show the beginnings of saddle sores where the side boards rode against their sides from the heavy loads of the feed sacks. The mustang, on the other hand, showed not a single mark…anywhere.
The Phillips Formfitter pack saddle is made with a leather skirt covering the saddle bars, with wool fleece on the underside. This fleece is intended to increase the padding and keep the saddle in place better. In comparison, our crossbuck pack saddles are simply made of wood. For the most part we had no trouble with the Phillips Formfitter staying in place…at least once we learned not to over-pad them, however, on our mustang we had a problem with the saddle pad crawling out from under the pack saddle. We had to stop and reset his saddle at least twice during the trip to move the saddle pad forward. We did not experience this on any other horse.
One of our crossbucks on Honey
Again, our crossbuck pack saddles were very sparse on rigging. Just a strap for the breast strap and a couple more for the breeching. They were simple to place, rig, load, and remove. They caused no saddle sores on any of the animals, and never threatened to turn and dump a load, despite our mule’s propensity to roll every time we stopped for a rest. We used the crossbucks on both of the two Quarter Horses and the mustang with similar results. Having said that, I must also add that the heaviest load we ever put on the crossbuck pack saddles was about 170 pounds and they often carried under 150, whereas our Phillips Formfitters were often loaded with up to 200 pounds of feed.
One problem we had with Dad’s old pack saddles was the fact that they are both in dire need of having all the leather replaced. Still, they made it through our trip with only one broken strap – a breast strap, which we repaired with a piece of nylon webbing we found along the trail.
Over the 28 days, Dad and I tried to streamline our morning camp-breaking ritual a number of ways, but we found that with four pack animals, and having to pack our camp and make up four manty packs and four paniers, we simply could not do it in less than about four hours. We discovered that packing the paniers was a simple matter of placing things in the bags in a fairly even manner, then weighing each panier with the pack scale and adjusting as necessary, normally a matter of removing an item from the heavy panier and placing it in the light one. Making up manties, on the other hand, was a matter of building two manties at one time, so that we could estimate that each would be fairly equal in size and weight, then wrapping each one and tying it up. Then, after they were completely done, weighing them to make sure the two packs were within one pound or so of each other. If they were significantly different in weight, they were unpacked, adjusted, and repacked. It was easy to balance them when a pack consisted of one or two bags of feed, but when they contained items of camp gear, after the feed was used, then it was a pain. Additionally, tying up the manties is very hard on the hands. The canvas and rope chafed and rubbed my hands to the degree that it became quite painful for about the first two weeks of the trip, until my hands toughened up.
The one thing we found handy about the manties was that we used the canvas tarps as a ground sheet and bed cover (we prefer sleeping out in the open and did not take a tent). By the end of the trip we had decided that for our kind of pack trips, mantying was simply an unnecessary chore. I can see how they would be the way to go for an outfitter with odd-sized items to pack, but for us, it just isn’t practical.
Utah-style paniers on a Phillips Formfitter pack saddle
For the last three days of the trip we decided that we would go with two pack animals and send one crossbuck pack saddle and one Phillips Formfitter home with our two mares. We also decided that mantying packs was a tedious task we could do without. We finished our trip using four paniers, two of which hung on either side of a Phillips Formfitter pack saddle.
In the final analysis, after 355 miles and 28 days on the trail, we learned that while Decker-style packing is very versatile, making up four manties every morning was terribly time-consuming, tedious, and very hard on the hands. Yes, Decker-style packing is versatile, but panier-style packing is much easier and takes less time and effort to pack, unpack, and load on the pack animal. Even with a cover and diamond hitch, the paniers were easier to pack than the manties. Hard paniers would be an even simpler option.
As for my Phillips Formfitter pack saddles, I am pleased with them and they performed well – once we learned the lesson about over-padding them. They are very well made, both with regard to materials and workmanship. However, I cannot say they out-performed the old traditional crossbuck pack saddles. Though, had we loaded up the crossbucks with the weights with which we loaded the Formfitters at times, things might have been different.
I will continue to use the Phillips Formfitter pack saddles due to their adjustability and versatility, but I will use them with paniers unless it is absolutely necessary to use manties. They will go with us when we start again next spring. While we had two horses that experienced saddle sores and rub sores, I cannot blame that on the pack saddles and do not believe they are at fault. These saddles allow me to choose between panier packing, with both soft and hard paniers, or to go with manties for odd-shaped loads.
For the type of horse packing Dad and I do, panier packing will remain our standard. Consequently, as far as utility is concerned, it is a wash between the Decker and Crossbuck pack saddles. While the Deckers are definitely more versatile in the ways they can be packed, we will be using them for handling paniers, which the crossbucks are specifically made for and do very well. Knowing what I know now, I would choose a standard crossbuck pack saddle over a standard Decker pack saddle for the kind of packing I do.
As far as the Phillips Formfitters are concerned, the quality of workmanship and materials, and the adjustability of the rigging and saddle bars are important to me and I remain pleased with them. I will use them pretty much as I would use a crossbuck pack saddle in the future, but will still have the added versatility when needed. In my opinion, the price tag of $699 for a fully outfitted Phillips Formfitter pack saddle is an excellent value when compared with prices for other brands and styles of pack saddles similarly outfitted. I expect mine will cover many miles on my pack animals before I hang up my spurs.
Thought I’d take a few minutes this morning to type up a gear report on one of the pieces of gear we took that truly proved its worth and durability on our 355 mile horse pack trip through the rough country of southeastern Arizona: Our Goal Zero solar chargers.
As you might recall from a previous post, I bought two solar chargers made by Goal Zero – a Guide 10 and a Nomad 13. The Nomad is the larger of the two panels, producing up to 13 watts of electricity, while the Guide 10 produces up to 10.
Goal Zero Guide 10
The reason I bought the Guide 10 to supplement the Nomad was that it comes with a rechargeable battery pack of four AA batteries that can be used as an emergency power source to recharge our other electronic devices when no sunshine is available.
Tough covers and clear plastic protecting the solar cells
When I first purchased the chargers I was quite concerned about their durability. They are flat-panel solar panels covered by a tough nylon-canvas material with a clear plastic cover over the solar cells. They both have a zippered pocket on the back, where cords and adapters may be stored. I am pleased to report that these panels have survived the first leg of our trip. 355 miles of the toughest terrain I have ever ridden over.
As I felt I needed to keep these panels accessible at all times, as well as the need to protect them from damage, I kept them in my saddle bags for the entire ride. My original intent was to strap them to the top of our pack saddles, so we could charge batteries and devices as we traveled. However, after our first day out, I let that idea die. We passed under so many low branches of mesquite, ironwood, juniper, ocotillo, and cactus, that I’m pretty sure they would have sustained damage had I tied them to our pack saddles.
My solar panels set out to charge my iphone
What I ended up doing for most of the trip was to set the panels out each morning and evening to catch as much sunshine as possible. Often, we made camp after the sun was low on the horizon, so I didn’t get a lot of charging done in the evenings, but I generally got several hours of good charging time each morning as we broke camp. My solar panels were the last thing to be packed before mounting up.
About the second week, we had a spell when there just wasn’t enough sunshine to keep our batteries charged, partly due to our traveling through trees in the Chiricahuas. I ended up one day with all my GoPro camera batteries discharged, my iphone dead, and my DeLorme Explorer GPS almost dead. Out of necessity I tied the Nomad 13 to the back of my saddle as we traveled in open country from the Chiricahuas to San Simon, AZ. The canvas cases for both units have small loops along outer borders which serve very well for tying them by saddle strings over my coat behind my saddle. While it did not charge very efficiently, due to not being able to always have it directly facing the sun, it was enough to get my iphone up to about a 30% charge after several hours. After that, whenever we traveled in open country I tied the Nomad to the back of my saddle and connected something to it, be it my iphone or the Guide 10 battery pack. In that way we were able to keep the most critical devices with at least a minimum charge the whole trip.
Another benefit of having both the Nomad and the Guide 10 was that the two can be connected together, or “daisy-chained”, by connecting the built-in cables, to increase their charging capacity. This greatly decreased the amount of time needed to completely recharge a device or top one off. When I set the panels out each morning or evening, they were daisy chained and I took pains to make sure the panels were situated to take maximum advantage of what sunshine was available. I found that even on cloudy days, there was sufficient sunshine to produce a trickle of electricity to get some charging done.
Guide 10 battery pack
The item I always gave priority to keep at full charge was the battery pack. The battery pack contained four rechargeable AA batteries and had sufficient depth to bring my iphone 6 from dead to about 95% charge in a matter of about 3 hours. At that point the battery pack would be completely dead. I would make sure it was brought to full charge the following morning. My reasoning for this was that my iphone was the second most important electronic device in our inventory. It communicated with my DeLorme Explorer and provided viewable topographical maps by which we guided ourselves much of the time. Since we didn’t get all the paper maps we should have, we were very reliant on the iphone to keep us going the right direction, particularly at forks in the trails. It also served as a camera for still shots and the occasional short video when I didn’t have the GoPro out and ready. The battery pack gave us some insurance against days without sun and was used a number of times to keep the iphone alive until it could be charged by the solar panels.
Indicator light, USB output, two power inputs, LED flashlight function on the battery pack
One end of the battery pack has a well organized set of power inputs and outputs, as well as an indicator light and LED flashlight function. The USB power output allowed us to use the regular USB charging cords for charging all our devices. The inputs allow charging from the solar panels via a built-in cord or from a 110V wall outlet via a USB charger. When the battery pack is discharged, the indicator light shows solid red. As it charges it shows a blinking red light, which changes to a slow-blinking green, then a faster-blinking green, then finally a solid green when fully charged. The same indicators show as it discharges while charging a device. There is an on/off switch on the left side which also turns the LED flashlight on and off. While I never needed the LED flashlight, I can see where it might come in handy on occasion. The pack also comes with an adapter to recharge AAA batteries. The reserve power of the battery pack was a very important asset for us on the pack trip. In fact, I am considering purchasing a second battery pack.
The most important device we had was, of course, the DeLorme InReach Explorer, however the settings I had in place on it kept it going for up to five days before hitting the critical 20% charge level. Not only that, but it would come back to full charge within about two hours, when connected to both panels in direct sunlight. So, one good morning would have the GPS set to go for nearly a week.
I made sure all our devices were turned off each night and not turned back on until needed the following day. By doing so, and by ensuring that I set the two chargers out each morning, along with the additional charging time on the back of my saddle, the two solar chargers kept all our devices with at least a minimum charge the entire trip, except that one day when I let things get discharged. That one day taught me to become more diligent and organized in keeping things charged and utilizing the sun when it was shining. Additionally, as we took a rest day every Sunday, the solar panels were set out all day and adjusted periodically to maximize their effectiveness in the sunshine, while charging all our devices to maximum capacity (that is, when the sun was actually shining).
As for durability, while stored in my saddlebags, along with a number of other items – flashlights, binoculars, odds and ends, etc – these two solar charges survived multiple instances of my saddle horse laying down and attempting to roll over. I can’t think of many more effective ways to prove the durability of these little panels. After the trial they have been through, I am satisfied that I will have them for many, many more miles into the future.
wear spots on the plastic solar cell protectors
The only thing I have found that would improve the durability and effectiveness of the Goal Zero solar chargers, in my opinion, would be to have a piece of flanel cloth, or similar material, cut to the size of the panels to keep between the clear plastic panels when the units are closed. I found that the clear plastic face of my units became scratched and had a somewhat fogged appearance in places, from the dust that got between them and scratched the surfaces while closed. I’m sure that decreases their efficiency, although I don’t know how much. This little improvement is something I will do for future use. I intend to recommend this as an improvement to the manufacturer.
My overall evaluation of the Nomad 13 and the Guide 10, used both individually and together, and I think I can honestly say they received a baptism by fire, so to speak, is that I consider them to be one of the most critical items of gear we had on the trip. That is not to say they were necessary for our survival, but they were absolutely necessary for the successful outcome of our trip. They proved themselves to be very durable under the most harsh conditions, surviving some pretty rough treatment and kept our critical electronic devices with at least a minimal charge throughout our month-long trip, thus ensuring we had the ability to contact the outside world at any time and that we were able to photographically document much of our trek for our followers.
Overall grade: A+
Goal Zero Guide 10
GOALZERO Nomad 13
Goal Zero Nomad 13 and Guide 10
Adapter cables, AA battery pack, and AAA adapter
Charging cables built-in
Tough covers and clear plastic protecting the solar cells
Guide 10 battery pack
Indicator light, USB output, two power inputs, LED flashlight function on the battery pack
It took us longer than we planned, and my estimated mileage was slightly off, but the first leg of our Mexico-to-Canada horse pack trip is complete.
We departed Eagar, Arizona on Friday, April 10, with the help of family and friends who drove trucks and hauled trailers stuffed with horses and gear. We arrived at our designated starting point just before dark that evening. Dad and I stayed with the horses and my four-horse trailer for the night. One of our drivers headed home, while the others, my sister, brother-in-law, and nephew, got a room in Douglas. They returned the following morning to help us get packed up and started and to haul my truck and trailer back to Eagar.
The following morning, Saturday, April 11, Dad and I arose about sunup and began by feeding the horses and getting our gear out of the trailer and getting it sorted for packing. A couple of US Border Patrol Agents stopped by to visit. They had their horses an we invited them to ride with us a ways. They accepted the invitation, but before we were ready to start making tracks, they got called away to monitor a group of Mexican citizens that appeared to be preparing to illegally cross the border.
We started at the US/Mexico border about 18 miles east of Douglas, Arizona, near where Silver Creek crosses the border. It also happens to be where the monument to the Mormon Battalion stands.
Departure at the Monument for the Mormon Battalion
For those who don’t know the history of the Mormon Battalion, during the Mexican-American War (1846-1848), the whole membership of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints, also known as Mormons, were making their exodus from Missouri and points east to the Salt Lake Valley, which was then in Mexican territory. Certain individuals in the US Government feared the Mormons were fleeing the United States, due to the persecution they had experienced in Missouri and the lack of any help or redress from the US Government, and that they would become Mexican citizens and fight against the US. The US Government sent forces to stop the Mormons from leaving the US, but once they actually met with representatives of the church, their fears were assuaged. Brigham Young called for volunteers to join the US forces to help fight against Mexico and drive them from the territories later claimed by the US, including most of the current southwestern United States. More than 500 volunteers joined what became known as the Mormon Battalion, leaving their families and friends to make their way west, trusting to the Lord and the other members of the church to care for them.
The Mormon Battalion trekked from Council Bluffs, Iowa to San Diego, California without a single hostile engagement, as Mexican forces fled southward. The battalion raised the first American flag over Tucson, Arizona, opened a southern route for future wagon trains bringing immigrants to New Mexico, Arizona, and California, and was instrumental in the settlement of much of the southwest of the United States of America. Former members of the Mormon Battalion were among the first discoverers of gold in California, which initiated the famous California gold rush.
There are several monuments in the southwest to the Mormon Battalion, and being Mormons ourselves, we felt fortunate to have started our trek at one of these historic sites.
I will mention here our gratitude to the US Border Patrol out of Douglas and Safford, for their assistance in getting permission from several ranchers for us to cross their range. Their help in selecting routes, obtaining permissions, and even guiding us through the Chiricahua Mountains was invaluable to us and to the success of our endeavor. During the first several days of our trip we were visited by their officers several times and were always provided with good information and help for our trip. They also kept us posted on any groups of illegal aliens and suspected drug traffickers they were monitoring, and helped us select routes that kept us out of harm’s way. I will provide more detailed information about their help in future posts.
Our route took us north from the US/Mex border, following Silver Creek to the Bar-M Ranch, where we turned more northeast, crossing US Highway 80 just west of Boss Ranch Road. We followed Boss Ranch Road, crossing Boss Ranch by permission of the owner, making camp in Half Moon Valley. From there we tracked northeastward, up past High Lonesome Spring to Texas Canyon Road. We followed Texas Canyon Road to Rucker Canyon Road ,which we followed northeast to North Fork.
Heading up North Fork Trail in the Chiricahuas
At North Fork we met with Joshua Jensen and Al Smith, who acted as our guides through the roughest part of the Chiricahuas and rode with us for three days. They took us up North Fork to the USFS lookout tower on Monte Vista Peak, then across the Crest Trail, and finally into Whitetail Canyon, through which we departed the Chiricahua Mountains. Both Josh and Al left us at Whitetail Canyon and Dad and I made our way northward to San Simon, where we crossed Interstate 10, passing underneath it traveling along San Simon Wash. We followed San Simon Wash northward toward Safford, until we had to leave it to find water for our horses. We ended up on a ranch road which took us past stock watering wells spaced about five miles, or so, apart and which led generally in the direction we needed to go. Thanks to Ron Mahan, of San Simon, for his help in selecting a favorable route through that dry desert area.
Nearing Safford, Az
We made Safford on Thursday, April 23, which was about 3 days or so behind our planned schedule. We stopped at Joshua Jensen’s place, which he and his wife were gracious enough to allow us to use as a rest stop and re-supply station. While there we had Al Smith shoe our mule. Josh allowed us to use his pickup, so we headed into town for supplies. We also used the assistance of Al Smith to scout a suitable and safe route northward from Safford. With his help, as well as advice from the local Bureau of Land Management agents at the Safford office, we decided to avoid the problems and dangers of following the Gila and San Francisco Rivers, both of which are known to be choked with willows and are notoriously dangerous for livestock, due to quicksands. We determined to take a route that passed south of the Gila, skirting the Gila Box, passing south of Clifton by way of a power line service road and connecting with the Black Hills Scenic Byway. We crossed Highway 191 south of Clifton, then passed through Verde Lee and Loma Linda, finally hitting Rattlesnake Road, which took us into the mountains east of Clifton.
Rattlesnake Road eventually gave way to a USFS road which led up Rattlesnake Canyon to Rattlesnake Gap. This trail was, without any doubt, the steepest climb and roughest mile I have ever taken a horse over. It is one heck of a trail. Once over the top, though, it was a nice ride. I’ll detail that one later as well. I took a bit of video footage of it.
From Rattlesnake Gap, we followed the two-track ranch road, designated as USFS #215, I believe, which joined USFS #212 about 16 miles later, near Martinez Ranch, on the San Francisco River. We then followed the San Francisco west about two miles to the confluence of it and the Blue River, where we turned north to follow the Blue. The topo map showed that the canyon walls of the Blue, for the first two miles were pretty near sheer and quite narrow and that there would be no leaving the river bottom in that space. Not wanting to get trapped in a river bottom choked with willows, we took an old ranch trail out of the bottom up onto Sunflower Mesa. This turned out to be quite fortuitous, as we ended up finding a cowboy camp with a running spring, corral, and even a tent at Pat Corral on Pat Mesa. As it was Friday evening, the hands apparently had gone into town for the weekend. We spent a very comfortable camp night there. We left them a note, thanking them for the use of their camp. They responded through facebook, inviting us back for a visit. I hope we can make it one day. Thanks, Ruth Brockman and the crew from the Turkey Creek Ranch.
The following day we continued north on Pat Mesa, until we reached Pigeon Creek. There we were trying to make a choice whether to continue on the two-track we were following, which was rough and steep, or to go down Pigeon Creek to the Blue and follow the Blue up to Juan Miller Road. The route through the Blue would save us up to four miles, while the road was more sure. We decided to take the sure route and stick with the road.
As we came up out of Pigeon Creek, we met a hiker. As we talked, suddenly the both of us realized we had been in communication nearly 18 months earlier, through the Internet, about routes through this area. Brett Tucker owns the Grand Enchantment Trail website. He is a long-distance hiker who has documented a number of foot trails in New Mexico and Arizona. What a serendipitous coincidence that we would meet on this trail at this point. After talking a few minutes, Brett convinced us to head back down Pigeon Creek to the Blue and follow the Blue on up to Juan Miller Road. We did that, and soon found ourselves starting the most spectacular part of our ride. Thanks again, Brett.
The ride up the Blue was not an easy trail, because we were essentially making our own trail as we went. We found the occasional cow trail, but for the most part we were making our own way. However, surprisingly, the river bottom was neither choked, nor narrow. We had to do very little “brush-busting” to make our way through and the mile-and-a-bit to Juan Miller Road melted away pretty quickly.
Once we hit Juan Miller Road, the only east-west thoroughfare through this part of Arizona, we headed west to hit a four-wheel-drive-only two-track that follows the hills above the Blue northward for about three miles or so, to the Fritz Ranch, an abandoned historic ranch now owned by the USFS. From there we joined Blue Trail #101, which, if it actually existed, would have been a nice ride. However, the trail has not been maintained in many years and following it was impossible most of the time. It was more like following cow trails, and, in fact, probably was exactly that. Again, the river bottom was wide and we had to do little brush-busting. The trail was a little rough on the horses, due to having to follow the river bed at times, where the river rocks made footing uneven and tricky, but at least it was rather level.
About a half mile up the Blue from Fritz Ranch, we made camp Saturday evening and there we stayed for our Sunday rest. It was a nice camp, plenty of grass for the horses, and good water for us as well. We learned to cherish our Sunday rests. They were very important, not only for ourselves, but especially for our stock.
The following Monday we continued up the Blue, enjoying some spectacular scenery along the way. We made 26 miles that day and reached our rest station at the cabin of Dick and Jean Goodman, near the old Blue Post Office, long after dark. Dick and Jean treated us to some excellent rest and even better food. Dick made arrangements for our horses in the corrals of a neighbor. We rested again on Tuesday, which was sorely needed after the previous day’s ride.
Coming out of the Blue on Red Hills Road
On Wednesday we headed north again, on the Red Hills Road. We contemplated taking the Red Hills Trail, but after the Wallow Fire a few short years ago, the best information we had indicated the trails from the Blue to the top were un pretty poor condition, and we didn’t want to have to spend time hacking our way to the top, about 4,500 feet above the river bottom.
We reached the top in the late afternoon and made camp near a set of corrals just south of Beaverhead on highway 191. A friend had left us a bale of hay at the corrals, which was a welcome supplement to our horse feed, after such a hard climb. Thanks Jimmy Joy.
This was one of the nicest camps we made during the trip and we celebrated with a campfire, one of three we made during the entire trip (all our cooking was done on a single-burner propane stove). Our elevation was about 8,500 feet, as I recall. The following morning I was treated to watch about 8 elk pass calmly through the woods near our camp.
Camp at the corrals on Highway 191
From that camp, we followed USFS #26 Road for about 10 miles, where it dead-ended into #24 Road. We followed #24 north to #25J, where we took that road as a means of getting off #24, which is one of the main roads through the White Mountains of Arizona. We found a nice camp with a spring near by for the horses. The night was cold at over 9,000 feet, and we got rained on during the night. In the morning there was ice on our tarps. Still it was one of the nicest camps of our trip, meriting a campfire for the evening rest.
Out on top, White Mountains
The following day we made the remaining 22.5 miles into Eagar, arriving in the early evening before dark. We had pushed hard during the day, to outrun the weather moving in. We heard thunder and had a bit of snow fall on us. At over 9,000 feet elevation, cold weather is nothing to mess with. Our horses were tired as we made our way down into Eagar. We turned them loose in my 20 acre pasture for a well-deserved rest and headed to my parents’ home.
The first leg of the trip was over. By my GPS we traveled 355.2 miles. It took us 28 days – four weeks to the day.
Now for decision time.
This first leg of our Mexico-to-Canada pack trip was designed to be a “shake-out” for us. Our plan was to take our rest here in Eagar, evaluate ourselves, our horses, and our gear, then make decisions and adjustments for the rest of the trip. We hoped to continue our trip after a few days’ rest.
We learned a lot during this first 355 miles. We learned that we had grossly overestimated our travel miles per day and underestimated the miles of our route. We now know that 15 miles per day is a realistic figure to plan on. As for our route going forward, much of our travel will be on the Arizona Trail, which is fully documented for mileage, somewhat maintained, and planned out, and the roughest part of our trip is now behind us. However, we are currently more than seven days behind our projected schedule, which means our plans for crossing the Grand Canyon are not going to work out. I’m going to have to cancel the reservations at Mather Campground and reschedule.
We learned that my traveling companion, Clancy, my Blue Heeler, simply cannot make the miles. He’s good for a day or two, but he simply cannot make multiple days of 15-20 miles. I ended up having to carry him on my horse several days, which caused sore backs on my Fox Trotters. We ended up sending him home with my mother from Dick’s place on the Blue. Clancy will have to miss out on the rest of the trip.
We learned that at least two of our horses are not the right horses for this kind of pack trip. The Quarter Horse mare I borowed got saddle sores right off and no matter how lightly we loaded her, we could not get her over them. She’s going to have some healing to do. My Fox Trotter mare, Lizzy, has a very fast walk and she loves to really move out, which I love, but her motion as she walks causes our pack saddle rigging to rub sores on her. Once her back got sore while she was under my riding saddle, we couldn’t even pack her lightly, because the pack saddle rigging would rub her raw in places. We sent the two mares to my pasture in Eagar from Dick’s place on the Blue. Thanks Kelly LeSueur, for coming to pick them up.
We learned that with four pack horses, there simply isn’t any way for us to break camp in the morning in less than 4 hours, costing us a lot of miles on the trail each day and a lot of extra work. While it was necessary for us to haul feed with us (we hauled up to 400 pounds of pelletized feed at a time) in the low desert areas of southern Arizona, once we got up into the higher latitudes and elevations, there was plenty of grass for the horses. We hope we can continue the trip with four horses, rather than six.
We had a couple of near disastrous wrecks during our trip, one of which eventually resulted in one of our best horses turning up with a limp the last 1/2 mile going into Eagar. Additionally, my two Fox Trotters have lost weight in their backs, which makes their already prominent spines contact the underside of my riding saddle, where the skirts are laced together under the cantle. They both currently have sore backs. The two animals who have come through entirely unscathed are my mustang, Jimbo, and the mule, Honey. Both have trimmed down and look like true athletes, solid and strong. These two are the only animals ready to start the second leg of our trip at this time.
As for ourselves, Dad and I both feel healthier, if a bit tired, now, than when we started. Both of us lost quite a bit of weight, and our muscles have begun to “leg-up” and become stronger. We have come through this with no injuries, no rubs, no health problems of any kind. Just tired. Nothing a rest won’t cure. You might recall that I am 56 years of age and Dad turns 81 in about 12 days. I am amazed at Dad’s condition and resilience. He says he’ll be ready for the second leg of the trip next year.
Lastly, this trip has cost me nearly $20,000 so far. Help and sponsorships I was hoping for didn’t come through. I am simply out of money.
All of the above factors, and others yet unmentioned, have brought us to the decision to stop here at Eagar, Arizona for this year and continue the trip next year.
This will allow us to make the necessary adjustments we have identified, such as acquiring a couple of horses that will be better suited for the trip, making a few minor changes in our gear, make better plans and reservations for crossing the Grand Canyon, and allow me to go back to work to pay off money I have borrowed for this trip as well as to put together a money reserve for next year’s trip. I have already purchased most of the gear we will need, so the funds required will be quite a bit less than for this leg of the trip, but I may still need to look for another horse or two. This is the wise course for us. This is what we need to do if we want to eventually complete this trek from Mexico to Canada.
Our thanks go out to all who have supported us, particularly those who have actually put out their time, efforts, and money to help us. We are grateful for all the prayers that have gone up in our behalf. We can say unequivocally that we received continual help from above, even miraculous help at times, and we thank the Lord for this.
I maintained a journal during the trip, so stay tuned for future posts with much more detailed information about our trip, out experiences, and reviews of the gear we used. I have a lot of video footage as well as a multitude of photographs, however the Internet connection at my parents’ home is somewhat slow. I may have to wait until I get home to Utah to get them uploaded.
What a trip! What an experience! Can’t wait for next year! The hardest part of the trip is now done.
To those of you who have been following this saga from the beginning, thank you. You will be pleased to know that Dad and I are actually in the “OK! We’re going to do this!” stage now. For those just joining us, my father and I have been trying to plan a horse pack trip from Mexcio to Canada. We have both been dreaming about something like this since I was in high school and we’re finally going to make it happen. We’ve had to scale our plans back a bit…a lot…because of a number of factors coming into play. The thought of making it all the way from Mexico to Canada is still rolling around in our heads, but we’ve decided it would be much wiser for us to break the trip up into “legs” and try not to bite off more than we can chew at a time.
Our hope for this year, 2015, is to take the first two legs of the trip, from the Mexican border to
The first two legs of our Mexico to Canada trip.
Panguitch, Utah. Shown in the graphic in red and green, as close as I can figure, using Google Earth and USFS maps, that will cover about 800-1,000 miles. I’m confident it will be closer to the 1,000 mile mark, since the Arizona Trail has been fully documented at 800 miles and our route through Arizona will be at least 100 miles longer than that, due to our desired stop in Eagar. We intend to document the trip by GPS, so there will be no question as to mileage and so anyone who wishes to follow our route later will have that information to help in their planning.
Truthfully, the second leg of the trip, from Eagar, Arizona to Panguitch, Utah, is the part of the trip Dad and I have been dreaming about. He and I have talked about crossing the Grand Canyon on our own stock for more years than I care to remember. From Eagar to Flagstaff, we’ll follow portions of the old Honeymoon Trail, which the early Mormon settlers of northeastern Arizona used to travel to be married in the LDS Temples in Utah. We’ll also travel the old General Crook Trail which he blazed from the White Mountains to Camp Verde in the late 1800s. We’ll then travel north on the Arizona Trail, crossing through the Grand Canyon, then on up through portions of southern Utah where my great-grandfathers used to ranch and run cattle. The legendary outlaw Butch Cassidy was known to have frequented the areas we’ll pass through. We’ll end up this leg, and likely our travels for the year, at Panguitch, Utah, where Dad was born and raised. This leg of the trip will be between 500 and 700 miles, as close as I can figure, and should take us about 6-7 weeks. Dad will turn 81 years old during that leg. There is a lot of history, both general and personal that we’ll be passing through on that part of our trip.
As of today, the plan is for us to depart sometime in April (a lot will depend on weather) and try the first leg of the trip. This will take us from the U.S./Mexico border just east of Douglas, Arizona, northward to Eagar, Arizona. That leg will be approximately 300 miles and should take us about three weeks, give or take a couple days. Eagar will be a sort of home-base for us, since that’s where my folks live. Once there, we’ll rest up for a week or two while we assess how we did and what we need to change. We will see how we feel about our horses, decide whether to add a couple to the string and whether any of the ones that made the first leg need to be changed-out. We’ll assess our gear – saddles, pack saddles, halters bridles, packs, cooking gear, etc. – and make adjustments where needed. Not among the least of things for a couple of old farts, we’ll assess our own health and determine whether our old bones can make the second leg of the trip.
To add a little more detail, shown in the graphic in red, the first leg will have us departing from about Border Monument #77, just a couple miles east of Douglas, Arizona. We’ll track generally north from there, crossing State Highway 80 and on into the Chiricahua Mountains. As I will be taking my trusty trail dog with us, we’ll stay clear of the boundaries of the state park there, tracking around it on the east side. We’ll trend northwest from there, following portions of the Grand Enchantment Trail through the mountains until we come close to Safford, Arizona, where we’ll head east until we come to Eagle Creek. We’ll head north from there, passing east of the San Carlos Indian Reservation border, wind our way up to cross Highway 191, and head over into the Blue Wilderness Area. We’ll drop down off the Mogollon Rim and find Blue Road and follow it northeastward until we come to a friend’s place just south of the town of Blue. We’ll likely stay there a couple days and rest ourselves and the horses, before heading up Foote Creek Trail, or possibly Grant Creek Trail, back up on top of the Mogollon Rim near Hannagan Meadow. From there we’ll be tracking northwest, passing west of Alpine and Nutrioso and on up to Eagar, Arizona. That will be the end of the first leg, as I said before. As close as I can figure that should be very close to 300 miles.
That route for the first leg makes good sense for us, because it crosses roads at various places and passes through or near a couple of towns. That will make it a fairly simple matter for our logistical support. We already know we will have to pack our horse feed, or at the very least supplement it on this first leg. It’s not likely there will be much grass along that route at that time of the year. We will plan to have a driver meet us at planned locations to re-supply us with feed…for both horses and humans. From what I see on Google Earth, though, we should be fine on water for the stock and for ourselves all along the route that time of year, as there are numerous stock ponds and tanks and a few creeks. Snow run-off and rain should have them all pretty full.
After taking a couple weeks for rest and recuperation, as well as assessment and adjustment as necessary, there at Eagar, we hope to embark on the second leg – the trophy leg – of our trip. This route, shown in green in the graphic, will track northwest from Eagar, Arizona along the edge of the pine forests of the Tonto National Forest, to Show Low, Arizona. Just west of Show Low, we’ll meet the General Crook Trail, which is a designated trail for foot/equine travel. It will take us on down the mountains to Camp Verde, where we’ll join the Arizona Trail. The Arizona Trail will take us north, passing west of Flagstaff, Arizona (actually through Flagstaff for a short distance), then on
Second leg from Eagar, AZ to Panguitch, UT
north to the park entrance to the Grand Canyon National Park. We’ll stop there to make all the necessary last-minute arrangements with the park service and the mule outfitters before heading down the designated trails to the bottom. While horse travel in the park is permitted on designated trails, coordination is necessary, so as not to encounter a string of mules coming the other way on a narrow portion of the trail. We’ll spend a night at the Ghost Ranch at the bottom of the canyon, to which I look forward with much anticipation. We could probably make it down and up in one day, but I can’t imagine making that passage without stopping for a night at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. That is something I have dreamed of. Sadly, my dog will have to travel this portion in the truck with the hired help.
From the Grand Canyon, we’ll move northward to cross U.S. Highway 89, where it makes a big jog as it crosses Paria Canyon. We’ll follow Paria northward to Willis Creek, which we will follow westward to the Grandview Trail. The trails up Paria and Willis Creek hold some spectacular scenery, winding through “slot-canyons” so narrow in some places that we’ll likely have to unpack our horses to pass through. The Grandview Trail wanders around the outskirts of Bryce Canyon National Park. It offers much of the same scenery, although from a less spectacular perspective, as the park does, but is on BLM land, which allows me to take my dog and is unregulated as far as horse travel. The Grandview Trail passes around the south end of Paunsaugunt Plateau (Bryce is on the southeast side of the plateau), then turns northward along the west side of the plateau. We’ll follow that trail up to Red Canyon, where we’ll come down off the plateau and make our way on into Panguitch, Utah.
We still have family living there in Panguitch, and Dad still has many old friends there. I expect we’ll be met there with open arms….and shaking heads. That will be the end of our trip for the year, completing the first two legs of our Mexico to Canada trip, covering about 800-1,000 miles.
It will also be the fulfillment of a long held dream for one son and his dad.
I was browsing through some old files, just cleaning up my computer a bit, when I came across a story my oldest son, Nathan, wrote for a school assignment in high school. The story was based on a true experience, or better said, ordeal, Nate passed through on a horse pack trip with his grandpa and me in the Weminuche Wilderness Area in southern Colorado in 2001, I think it was.
No, no horses were shot, but I have to admit there were thoughts about it. I’ll have to tell the true story on another post. It was quite the trip.
By the way, Nate’s a doctor now.
Enjoy.
Student # 8
Eng. 111
21 October 2002
A Real Cowboy
Cowboys have been much publicized characters throughout American history. Generally, they are portrayed as rough, tough, down-and-dirty guys on the silver screen. Usually they’re ill-mannered yet still chivalrous, slow of wit albeit quick to the revolver, and always scrambling onto their horse once more than it has thrown them off. John Wayne is the perfect example. Cowboys are rugged, worn-down, ready for a fight, and anything that comes their way can be handled by either their fist or their pistol.
My grandpa is a cowboy. His father was killed when he was young, so he grew up as the man of the house. He’s farmed, he’s roped, he’s rode, he’s hunted… he’s done it all. If there ever was a real cowboy, it’d be him. He grew up teaching manners to rank, unbroken horses, and the smile never left his face. I’ve heard stories of him going out on the town looking for fist-fights just to pass the time. Grandpa is tough.
Dad is a cowboy. As a career, he’s FBI. Given a choice though, he’d be baling hay in an instant. Growing up, he did the work on my grandpa’s farm. He loved every minute of it. He has a special whistle he does that is like the call of mother nature herself… he can call horses, dogs, cats, and even children with this whistle. Familiar or not, they all come running. He’s been camping alone outdoors more times than I’ll ever sleep outside at all. He owns three horses and rides them every chance he gets. I’d bet that if he woke up in the wilderness one day with nothing but a Swiss army knife and five hundred miles to civilization, he would make it back without mishap. If someone gave him a horse as well, he’d probably choose to never return! And talk about being a tough-guy… just last year he fought two guys at once because of a traffic violation. Every day he’s got a new smashed thumb, twisted ankle, or half-severed finger, and he never once complains. Dad is tough.
Now me, I’m on the opposite end of the spectrum with this whole cowboy deal. I’d much rather discuss than “duke it out.” I enjoy firearms, but my idea of a shoot-out is watching “The Matrix” on DVD, and I’d take a fully-automatic H&K MP-5 submachine-gun over any revolver or bolt action rifle. Camping is a lot of fun and all, but the best part is always coming home and showering to get rid of that putrid smell. Hay makes me itch and alfalfa gives me asthma attacks. But the worst part of the whole ordeal is the horses. Horses are big, dumb animals that make good glue. Sure, they’re faster than walking and are more versatile than a covered wagon, but they can never compare to my Jeep that will do 60 miles per hour and carry a hundred times the equipment.
I suppose the true reason for my extremist opinion is that I’ve been bit, stepped on, kicked, clothes-lined off, and bucked off of horses. In fact, the last time I’d been around a horse, I had mounted up to ride while my dad led the horse around with a lead rope, so he could “keep control.” As fate would have it, the horse soon tried to run off with me, slipped in a puddle of mud, and fell on its left side. All four hoofs were still in the air, and my left foot was under the horse’s left side. (My dad of course bought the horse the next day). I, on the other hand, had six weeks to relive the encounter while five decimated bones healed. The darn things just don’t seem to like me a bit. This is why I was so surprised with my dad’s question.
“So, son… your grandpa and I were thinking it might be neat for the three of us to go on a horse trip up in Colorado. It’d be kinda a three generation thing…” I couldn’t believe that my dad would have the nerve, the gall, the audacity to ask such a ridiculous question! Do I want to go on a horse trip? Of course I don’t! What a terrible idea! Is he trying to get me killed? I’d rather go skydiving without a parachute!
“…and we’ll arrive at Emerald Lake. I’ve heard it has great fishing.”
There it was. There was the catch. My father, being the cunning man he is, had introduced a new element into the equation. One he knew I couldn’t resist. Fly-fishing was the greatest thing in the world to me. I loved it, and my dad knew it. That’s how I came to agree to go on the stupid horse trip at all. At the time, I knew it’d all be worth it once I reeled in my first rainbow trout of the day.
So there I was, sitting on a nice, small, 25 five year old horse (which I suppose is ancient in horse years) with no mischief to give me. My father had saddled my horse, named Ronie, up for me and was now saddling his up, the intimidating foot-breaker of my past. His name was Max. My grandfather was on Royal, a bad-tempered, ornery steed. After getting suited up and used to my new elevation atop the animal, we embarked on our journey and left behind the world of comfort I was used to.
Sure enough, not 100 yards from mounting the horses, Royal started to give Grandpa a bit of trouble. The horse froze up, twirled in a circle a few times, then fell toward a barbed wire fence, taking my grandpa down with him. Somehow, my grandpa rolled away before being pummeled by the thrashing feet of the crazed horse. My dad then decides to be a hero, so he “tackles” the horse to prevent it from becoming further entangled in barbed wire. The killer horse proceeded to pound my dad’s head into a rock in all of the commotion. Eventually, everything got settled down. As usual, Dad was optimistic about the rest of the trip. Grandpa, however, was mumbling something like, “That’s one.” I didn’t know what he meant, so I didn’t concern myself with it. Within a few minutes, though, the horse and both my father and grandfather were up on their feet and ready to go. I was raring to go, too… to go home, that is. Alas, we pushed onward. Then came the rain. The huge drops weren’t much of a problem as we rode, the rain slickers took care of it rather well. However, when it got too dark to ride, it did present a problem. Everything was wet, so a fire was out of the question. All in all, we ended up spending the night underneath a tree (to block the rain) in a sleeping bag surrounded by two tarps. For dinner I ate cold beans, straight from the can, (and they were absolutely the best beans I’ve ever eaten.)
Arising the next day, sore and hungry, we set out to make good time. The first obstacle we faced was a steep hill we had to climb to get out of the camping spot. It was about 15 yards long and seemed almost straight up. Strangely, to this day I still don’t recall going down that hill the previous night. Regardless, I went up first and made it just fine. I had the good old horse. Following close behind me was my dad, who did fine as well. Bringing up the rear was poor old Grandpa. The tough old guy didn’t even see it coming… three quarters of the way up the hill, the horse went straight over backwards on top of him. Seeing his father apparently crushed, my dad leapt from his saddle and flew to my grandpa’s aid. Miraculously, Grandpa had landed immediately on the downhill side of a log, and the horse rolled over the log and left him merely shaken and bruised from the fall. Then came the arduous task of getting Royal to come up the hill at all. Grandpa pulled and tugged at the lead rope (from terra firma this time) until stubborn Royal finally crested the hill… and practically jumped on top of him. I watched in horror as my grandpa, on hands and knees, dodged the pounding hoofs from above like a bad spoof from The Matrix. With a mighty shove, my dad moved the stupid animal and I’m sure saved my grandpa’s skull. Under his breath, I heard, “That’s two…” from Grandpa.
When the commotion had subsided, I again presented my idea to return from whence we came. Again, my proposition was shot down by a grandfather who persisted that “the show must go on.” I was then beginning to suspect a conspiracy between my father and grandfather… for some reason, I felt that they were pushing to stay just a little too hard to be for their own sakes; there could be no other reason, I could find, though… anyway, on with the story.
We once again headed up the trail, this time with Dad walking, leading royal by the halter, and Grandpa riding Max. We had only a little longer. We were almost to the lake… I could taste the trout already.
Then came the switchbacks. The two foot wide switchbacks made possible a nearly vertical ascent by crossing a steep hillside horizontally, several times, at a low grade angle. I was absolutely positive that my horse would *snap* anytime and slip, tumbling off the edge and breaking me in half. I just knew it… I even had my foot halfway out of the stirrups at times… but the fall never happened. The horse never even twitched. My horse was steady as a rock, and as long as the “rock” didn’t become a rolling stone, I was fine with it.
Then, we crested the ominous mountain, and there sat our destination, our goal… Emerald Lake.
That evening, after finding a place to camp, we decided to ride down to the waterfront and check out the view while we used our pump to purify some water. Grandpa decided to take his chances with Royal one more time. We were all fine until we arrived at the waterfront, when Royal decided to act up again. This time, Grandpa wasn’t going to wait around to see what happens. As soon as Royal started to fall, Grandpa leapt from Royal’s back in a stupendously acrobatic maneuver (for a 65 year old) and gracefully landed flat on his back, on a rock. Ouch!
Grandpa got back up as quickly as he could, but it took him a minute. He didn’t complain a bit. Instead, he took a .38 Special revolver from his saddle-pack, put it to the horse’s head, and told it “That was three.” Then, he pulled the trigger.
I couldn’t believe it! I sat aghast for a moment, then I awkwardly dismounted as quickly as I
could. I screamed, “Grandpa, I can’t believe you! How could you? The poor animal… I know I don’t like horses, but…”
Then my Grandpa gave me a look that I have never forgotten and said, “Nate, that’s one.”
Grandpa rode my horse for the trip back, and I walked. Nevertheless, I didn’t complain once.
So, I was thinking I would have some spare time to do some work on my gear, make my chaps, work on my saddles…nope. Turns out the Good Lord had other plans.
I have spent almost all my time over the past several weeks helping a couple of senior ladies move their lives from one home to another. It has been an enjoyable experience for me, and a lot of work as well. This has left precious little time and energy to get back to my play-time stuff and keep up on my blog. It is amazing how much stuff we can amass in a lifetime, and how attached we become to it. I don’t mean that in a derogatory way. I think we become attached to the memories connected to the stuff, not necessarily the stuff itself. While I have enjoyed the service, I have felt deeply the sorrow and heart-wrenching emotions these fine sisters have gone through watching me haul their lives away to Goodwill and the dump, as they have divested themselves of all but their essential belongings. It has been a humbling experience.
Howsoever, I have not been totally useless…er…I mean, idle, with regard to my GWT trip.
Last month I bought a book on horse and mule packing, entitled The Packer’s Manual by Bob Hoverson, through Trailhead Supply.
Bob Hoverson’s The Packer’s Manual
I found it to be a good resource for anyone, experienced or just beginning, who is involved with packing. Hoverson is a confirmed Decker-style packer, and the book is specifically geared toward Decker-style pack saddles and all things related thereto. He spends a chapter on horses and mules, but for the most part the book details all the how-tos and wherefores of Decker-style packing. I recommend it.
Since I have decided I will use Decker-style pack saddles on my Great Western Trail trip, I decided I should start putting my gear together and get some practice in.
First off, I ordered two 150′ hanks of rope, one 3/8″ and the other 1/2″, in accordance with the recommendations Hoverson makes in the book. He likes a synthetic three-strand rope made by New England, called Multi-Line II. After handling the rope, I have to agree with him. I like the rope. It has enough body to hold knots and hitches well, yet is not so hard that it is tough on the hands and gear. According to Hoverson, it wears well and is resistant to sun degradation.
Hoverson recommends the following ropes for each pack saddle:
2 – Sling Ropes, 1/2″ diameter, 24-28′ in length
2 – Cargo Ropes, 3/8″ diameter, 35′ in length
1 – Lead Rope, 1/2″, 12′ long
1 – Pigtail, 3/8″, 7′ long
1 – Breakaway, 1’4 or 3/8″ manila rope, about 3′ long
Each rope gets backbraided with an eye on one end and a simple backbraid on the other. Hoverson refers to these as backsplices (technically, a splice is joining two pieces of rope).
Eye backbraid
End backbraid
I came just a few feet short of being able to make all the necessary ropes for two pack outfits from the two hanks of rope I bought. I made my ropes to the longest recommendations of Hoverson. Had I made my sling ropes 24′, rather than 28′, I would have been able to get all the necessary ropes from those two hanks. As it is, I have about 19′ of 1/2″ left over for an additional lead. I’ll have to order about 7′ of 3/8″ for another Pigtail and 28′ of 1/2″ for another Sling rope. You can get the stuff by the foot or bulk from Outfitter Supply, but I found the prices to be better from Rigging Warehouse.
I followed Hoverson’s instructions for doing the backbraids and eyes and was able to recover a skill I had as a much younger man, but had forgotten long since. I enjoyed an evening braiding the ends of my ropes and getting all my ropes finished. I will eventually get around to making an instructional video on cutting, backbraiding, and finishing this synthetic rope.
Almost all my packing ropes in one box
Additionally, I have bought several other items of equipment. I bought a pair of Estwing axes from Home Depot that appear to me to be perfect for packing.
My 16″ and 26″ Estwing pack axes.
I bought a 16″ one, that will probably go with me on my GWT ride, and a 26″ one that will go with me on my shorter pack trips where I think there may be trail maintenance involved.
I found a decent little 30″ tree saw on Craigslist for $20, and bought it. It will need a new wood handle and to be sharpened and polished, but it will be very handy on any trail.
My new old 30″ tree saw alongside my one-hand log saw
I will make a leather holster for it and simply hang it from any convenient place on either a pack saddle or my riding saddle. You see it here along side my one-hand log saw that is also in need of polishing and sharpening.
I replaced my old trusty rawhide covered 1-gallon canteen, which seems to have sprung a leak recently. I bought a round 1-gallon and a round 2-quart canteen, as well as a military surplus collapsible 2-quart canteen. I decided to give the MS canteen a try on the trail. It looks like it will hang quite well from a saddle and will likely stand up better to being banged around on the trail than my round canteens, despite it’s definitely “un-cowboy” appearance.
I have always used round canteens, but I’m going to try a mil surplus collapsible (right)
I have used the round canteens on the trail for many years and prefer them, but they are susceptible to being broken by being mashed against trees. The one I wrapped in rawhide many years ago lasted well, though.
I also repaired the water heater in my horse trailer/camper. The previous owners forgot to winterize, apparently, and the 6-gallon tank split. I ordered a replacement on ebay and installed it two weeks ago.
This is what happens when you forget to winterize!
The next project on the trailer is the spring-over conversion for the axles, to raise the back of the trailer up to level it when towed behind my 2005 Dodge 3500 dually. I’m just hoping the horses will still load and unload once the trailer is raised. We’ll see what happens.
So, you see, while I haven’t made a post in a while, I haven’t been totally disengaged.
It may be a while before my next post as well. This weekend I head west to attend the college graduations of two of my kids. My #2 daughter graduates from Brigham Young University at the end of this month, and my oldest son graduates from the University of New Mexico Medical School the second week in May. I’ll also get to spend some time with my parents in Arizona between the two dates and will hopefully get in a nice little pack trip while I’m there.
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